Alcohol

When showing me his straightforward technique for making this traditional dessert, chef Cesare Giaccone (at Da Cesare restaurant in Albaretto della Torre) credited a parish priest in a nearby hamlet for giving him new understanding of zabaglione. Whether that meant pointers or inspiration was hard to tell, but knowing that this ambrosia has such a godly source allows me to enjoy it even more!

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Rich, refreshing and easy — the perfect finale to an elegant summer dinner.

Brandysnaps are popular in Scotland, and lemon curd is a British fixture. Here is a double treat of lemon curd: Some goes into the ice cream; the rest is offered as a sauce.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Adapted from Pierre Gagnaire The French, who invented soufflés, understand that the whole point is that everything that rises falls. Soufflés should not be overcooked; they should be slightly creamy in the middle.

The recipe makes about 36 truffles; 12 are used for the tartlets. The extras can be kept frozen for other special occasions. Start this recipe the day before serving the tartlets.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

This drink is sometimes called Champagne Velvet, and in certain quarters is known as the Friendly Sons of St. Patrick Shandygaff, a fine euphoric title.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A sophisticated main course that's quick and easy to make. Accompany the fish with wild rice pilaf and steamed asparagus.

During hard times, luxury cuts like steaks and chops give way to humbler ones. None are humbler than the oxtail, and all across the country, depression-era cooks made much of it, frequently in soup. Even in these days, when humble cuts have become restaurant menu stars, soup is still a good way to go with oxtails. Simmering them slowly with garlic and vegetables in red wine yields a rich broth and tender, succulent meat, making a lavish feast for us all.

Suzanne Rackley of San Rafael, California, writes: "My husband and I had a fabulous dinner at Cobalt in New Orleans. I had the salmon with Martini sauce, and it was great. I would love to impress my friends and family with a new way to serve our favorite fish."