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Pan-Roasted Chicken Livers with Thyme and Schmaltz

A jar of rendered golden chicken fat, or schmaltz, is a faithful friend in the kitchen—tossed with noodles and toasted bread crumbs, added to dumplings in chicken broth, or smeared on flatbread with herbs before baking. These livers are a good companion to a hearty vegetable dish like the Warm Mushroom Salad (page 198).

Raw Oysters on Ice with Hot Sauce

In restaurants, raw oysters tend to be disappointing and expensive. At home they are a slightly messy but relatively cheap treat. Skip the sweet cocktail sauce and serve them with a bottle of good hot sauce—classic and delicious.

Basic Meat Stock

For the bones, select a combination of the following: chicken (necks, whole carcasses, wings, or feet), pork (any bone, shanks, necks, split feet, smoked hock, or ham bone), or beef (oxtail or any bones).

Brussels Sprout Leaves in Brown Butter

Browning butter is one of the fastest, simplest ways of creating deep, satisfying flavor. Removing the leaves from Brussels sprouts allows them to cook quickly and evenly, avoiding the overcooking and resulting mushiness that many associate with the vegetable.

Pan-Roasted Black Drum

Black drum is a terrific fish—meaty and satisfying but still delicate. It’s often compared to overfished grouper but is more flavorful and less tough, and its skin cooks up crisp and savory. If you can’t find drum, black cod (sablefish) from Alaska or wild striped bass is a good substitute.

Spinach with Melted Leeks and Cardamom

Dark green curly spinach varieties like Savoy or Bloomsdale have a deeper, richer flavor than the lighter green, grassier flat-leaf spinach, but any spinach pairs wonderfully with cardamom.

Sauerkraut

I love making sauerkraut and wait to do it on a day when I am alone in the kitchen and it’s hopefully raining.

Seven-Spice Powder

Leftover spice powder can be stored in an airtight container for a few weeks and makes a surprising addition to noodles, soups, and sashimi.

Flash-Fried Shishito Peppers with Sea Salt

The spice level of both shishitos and the fleshier pimiento de padrón are unpredictable—most have a gentle zip, while the occasional pepper, about one in seven, is quite hot, adding some drama to cocktail time.

Rack of Lamb with Mixed Herb Seasoning

Rack of lamb is the rib section of the lamb, extending from the shoulder to the loin. The majority of lamb is graded as choice or prime, so it is not difficult to find a good-quality rack. Lamb is available at most quality butcher houses or grocery stores. When selecting a rack of lamb, make sure that the backbone, or chine, has been removed. This will make slicing each lamb chop easier, prior to serving. If you’ve shied away from serving lamb to your picky eaters, give this recipe a spin; it is one of my family’s favorites. Keep in mind that my kids are just as picky eaters as yours. Rack of lamb is the best way to introduce children to the distinct deep flavor of lamb meat, the only downside being the relatively high price per pound. There is something about “lamb on a stick” that appeals to the young ones. In the end, though, it is the flavor of this recipe that will have the kids requesting second helpings.

Barbecue Chicken Breasts with Soy-Lemon Marinade

Lemons have a broad appeal for those who barbecue because of the variety of ways in which they can be used. Lemon slices heighten both the color and flavor of sop mops or bastes and sauces, and a sprinkling of lemon on fresh-cut fruits will prevent oxidation, which causes fruits to turn brown before they can hit the grill. A twist of lemon will neutralize the odor of fish, a must for cedar plank–smoked salmon. Perhaps most important, in a marinade the acid in lemon juice will help break down the meat’s collagen fibers, thus helping to tenderize tougher cuts. This recipe, cooked using the indirect heat method at high temperature, is easily one of the quickest and most flavorful recipes I know. Cooking with indirect heat at a high temperature on a closed grill will simulate an indoor oven without sacrificing smoke flavor and will prevent premature caramelization of the soy sauce.

Standing Rib Roast with Roasted Garlic Herb Butter

This expensive cut of beef is a primal cut taken from the upper rib area. A whole rib roast consists of seven ribs and weighs close to fifteen pounds, which is enough beef to feed a party of twenty. More typically this cut is sold as three to four rib roasts or is cut down to single rib-eye steaks. Rib roasts are labeled many different ways at the grocery store, including as “standing rib roast” or “prime rib.” The term “prime” is used very loosely in this case and probably does not mean the meat has been graded “prime” by the USDA. Prime rib roasts have always been popular because of their tenderness and rich beef flavor. Usually the simpler preparation the better for this cut of beef. Many of the popular marinades today compromise the great taste of this cut by masking the natural beef flavor. This recipe uses mild seasoning accents to heighten and not diminish the flavor of this tasty beef roast.

Big Bob Gibson’s Head of Beef

“Head of beef” is a term that Big Bob used to describe his favorite cut of beef, the top round. This lean cut is taken from the top portion of the back leg and weighs around thirty pounds. When Big Bob began serving top round in the restaurant, he raised his pit lids to the ten-inch clearance needed to fit this enormous hunk of beef into his cooker. With a sixteen-hour cook time, Big Bob’s head of beef roasts slowly overnight on the pit next to the pork shoulders. This gives the simple seasonings time to meld with the natural flavor of the beef. Two things are needed when trying Big Bob’s original beef recipe at home: a sturdy grill and a large crowd!

Chipotle Lime Butter

Canned chipotle peppers add smoky, spicy heat.
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