European

In Alba, and throughout the region of Piedmont, a pumpkin-like squash called zucca is found on many fall menus. Butternut squash substitutes nicely here.

Little dumplings that are served in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Alsace, spaetzle are usually made by pushing the batter through a strainer into boiling water. The batter in this recipe is thicker and can be shaped with a small spoon.

Creamy custards and puddings were big hits in 1997. Pots de crème are typically made with vanilla or chocolate, but these luscious custards have a deep caramel flavor.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The ciabatta does require a simple sponge but it takes only a few minutes to put together the day before making the bread. Though the dough for ciabatta is very wet and sticky, resist the temptation to add more flour. For this recipe you will need a baking stone or unglazed "quarry" tiles. Baking stones are available at cookware shops and by mail order from The Baker's Catalogue, tel. (800) 827-6836. Tiles are also available at the above sources as well as at many tile stores listed in the Yellow Pages.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. If you have Arborio rice on hand, use it in place of long-grained rice.

It's interesting, sophisticated fare like this that keeps Roly's Bistro constantly crowded. Restaurateur Roly Saul and chef Colin O'Daly are Dublin fixtures.

The low-fat mushroom ragout can also be served over toast points or as a side dish.

In Italy, the panna cotta (molded cooked-cream dessert) at each restaurant was different: Some included hazelnuts; some were made with eggs and some without. Taking a few liberties of our own - most notably adding sour cream - we created the following superb rendition.

(Mashed Potatoes with Cabbage) Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. This recipe for colcannon is thought to have come to the New World in the 1800s, carried by the great waves of Irish immigration.

(Russian Potato-and-Cabbage Turnovers)

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Roast goose with apples, a specialty of Alsace, has become a classic Hanukkah dish in Paris. This recipe comes from Didier Lewkowicz, a butcher in the old Jewish quarter of Paris. Serve a French red Bordeaux with the goose.

Forget gefilte fish and try this instead: a version of a French classic called carpe à la juive. (It calls for salmon trout instead of carp.) The fish (opposite) is chilled overnight, so begin the recipe a day ahead. Pour a Riesling.

Team this dish with roasted potatoes, green beans tossed with shallot butter, and a bottle of Pinot Noir. To finish, buy a lemon cheesecake from your favorite bakery.