Oven Bake

Just a couple of chopped anchovy fillets deepen the flavor of this simple starter.

The Original: Filling made from ground beef simmered in a spicy tomato sauce. Our Version: Tender pieces of pork simmered with roasted green chiles and salsa verde.

The tanginess of the homemade pickled eggs (they're easy!) balances the richness of the chicken liver. Timing note: Begin making the eggs at least one day ahead.

The Original: Any old canned tuna mixed with cream of something (chicken, celery, mushroom) soup. Our Version: Oil-packed albacore in a roux-thickened sauce flavored with leeks, dill, and Gruyère. Our one old-school concession? A crunchy, crushed-potato-chip topping.

The Original: Breaded, fried eggplant with a thick oregano-flavored tomato sauce. Our Version: Broiled slices of eggplant wrapped around a mint-and chard-flecked ricotta filling.

The Original: Eggs baked (or poached) in a spicy tomato sauce. Our Version: A heartier (and healthier) meal, thanks to the addition of artichoke hearts and potatoes.

Rosemary's piney scent is so particular you could never mistake it for any other herb. A handful of sprigs (left over from Beef Sautéed with White Wine and Rosemary ) mingle with garlic to cast a spell over roasted potatoes, resulting in something that's just right on a winter night.

Buffalo wings, all grown up.

There's something about salty-sweet treats that we find irresistible (and we know we're not alone). Here, as the dates bake they get deliciously sweet and caramely. And the salty part? That comes from the crispy pancetta-and the warm cheese.

Use leftover ham or good-quality ham from the deli counter in this dish.

Bison (a.k.a. buffalo) is available at some natural foods stores, specialty foods stores, and farmers' markets.

Position racks in the top third and the bottom third of the oven so that the chicken and the carrots can roast together.

These are great for sandwiches. Just split them in half, slather with some Dijon, pile on thinly sliced ham, and add a lettuce leaf.

Cassoulet is a robust meal, filled with cured and smoked meats and sausages, baked in a stew of beans until a rich crust forms. According to tradition, the cook repeatedly breaks the crust and pushes it down into the stew.