Gourmet

Many southerners object to the practice of adding sugar to corn bread, but associate food editor Alexis Touchet, who grew up in Louisiana, is all for it. Sugar, in fact, is listed as an optional ingredient in the recipe for "pain de maïs nonpareil" in The Picayune's Creole Cook Book, first published in 1901. It's important here that your cast-iron skillet is well seasoned and thoroughly preheated—you want the batter to sizzle when you pour it in.

Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 1 hr (includes cooling)

The pancetta and cheese rind give this soup a rich, almost creamy flavor. We removed the stems from the Swiss chard, but if you don't want to waste them, feel free to put them in the soup as well: Once the leaves are sliced, chop the stems and add them to the soup along with the leaves.

Schwarzwälder Torte Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 4 hr (includes cooling meringues)

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 45 min

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 2 3/4 hr (includes cooling)

Though you have to plan ahead, processing these pickles is worth the effort — we found the heat cooks the okra just a bit and helps them absorb the brine.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Zuppa di Castagne e Cavolo Nero Cavolo nero is a member of the kale family. Between farm stands, specialty produce markets, and natural foods stores it is available year-round. To find it, be aware of its many aliases: Tuscan kale, black cabbage, lacinato, and dinosaur kale. Its rich, sweet, almost meaty flavor will have you hooked from the first bite.

Helena Seefranz of Rockaway, New Jersey, writes: "My mother, Ethel Lang Kelemen, was born in Hungary. She taught my older sister and me how to prepare many Hungarian dishes, but my favorite is chicken paprikas. I hope you enjoy this recipe as much as my family does."

Pho, the Vietnamese noodle soup, is traditionally made with long-cooked beef stock. Our quick version calls for deli sliced beef and canned beef broth instead.<