Gourmet

Oyster-roast masters like Louis Osteen, who have been doing this for years, use huge pits or grills that are large enough to cook sausages, oysters, and clams all at the same time. We recommend using whatever type of oyster is locally available to you. Examine them carefully—discard any that smell bad. If any are cracked or open, and don't close when tapped, discard those as well. When roasting oysters, it's important to keep them moist enough to create steam (hence the soaked burlap or water in the roasting pan). If roasted dry, they can explode. To make this menu simpler, you could skip making the clams; there will still be plenty of food for everyone.

This tuna sandwich is all about olive oil. Use the French stuff if possible; otherwise, any mild olive oil will do—save that fancy super-Tuscan for something else. The tuna and the bread are crucial, too. Forget about tuna packed in water. It's flavorless. You want the kind packed in olive (not vegetable) oil. We thought ortiz's Bonito del Norte, newly exported from Spain, was the closest thing to Ni‧oise tuna, but it can be tough to find. (We ordered ours from Citarella; 212-874-0384.) Of the brands commonly available in the United States, we preferred Progresso light tuna. Other brands of canned light tuna that we are fond of are Genova and La Giara. This last is very expensive—about $10—and is available at many specialty foods shops and by mail order from Citarella.

Mini pound cakes are not only delicious but a perfect dessert for picnics or box lunches. For a more formal look, pur
e some blueberries with a little sugar and serve the sauce over the cakes. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 45 min

"My husband and I celebrated two of our anniversaries at the restaurant in the Morrison-Clark Inn, in Washington, DC, and enjoyed the experience both times." says Michelle M. Berberet of Alexandria, Virginia. "We are especially fond of the lemon chess pie. Do you think you can get the recipe, or is it a state secret?" It's no state secret—pastry chef Sol Schott was happy to share. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Schat begins by making a biga — a rather stiff dough that ferments in the refrigerator overnight. He incorporates a portion of the biga into another, wetter dough made the next day. The biga adds a deeper flavor and extra strength to the final dough. Schat, like all professional bakers, measures his ingredients by weight, which is far more precise than volume.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 10 hr (includes soaking raisins)

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 2 hr

Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 5 hr

Glazed turnips make a nice side dish for roasted meats or poultry. Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 35 min

Watch everyone’s eyes open wide when you serve this big four-layer cake.

Chimichurri is a thick herb sauce that in Argentina is typically served with steak.

In her cookbook Fiesta!, Anya von Bremzen included a recipe by the Jackson Heights (Queens, New York) "arepa lady," known simply as Piedad. Though arepas are a common South American breakfast item (as well as a lunch and dinner starch), what makes hers so special is the luxurious inclusion of butter in the dough and the use of milk instead of water. We've adapted the recipe slightly.

Active time: 5 min Start to finish: 10 minutes