Gourmet

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 1 hr

"Sirs: You delight us!" writes Helen Gwyer of Norwalk, Connecticut. "Our Salem ancestors would certainly have burned you as bewitchers of our mental and physical being. But will you tell us how to poach an egg? For years I have tried to achieve the smooth, symmetrical perfection that any French kitchen can turn out with ease. "Will we ever again sit at a little table on the sidewalk at Rumpelmayer's in Menton for petit déjeuner — a poached egg, pâté de foie gras in soft finger rolls, and hot chocolate? "So many recipes call for poached eggs, but can you poach one?"

This corn bread is on the dry side — ideal for our dressing (see Pork Chops with Pecan Corn Bread Dressing and Cider Gravy) but not for eating on its own. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 30 min

These apples are a perfect garnish for the spiced apple cake and caramelized apple crêpes. They're terrific as a topping for ice cream, too. Active time: 25 min Start to finish: 25 min

Cooked dried chickpeas are firmer and more flavorful than canned. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 3 hr Servings: Makes about 5 cups.

You may have had pappadams — light, crisp wafers made of lentil flour — at Indian restaurants. Here we use them as a stand-in for croutons.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe was created to accompany Spinach and Endive Salad with Lemon-Ginger Dressing and Crisp Won Ton Strips. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Makes use of the microwave oven.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Preserved lemons are a staple Moroccan condiment that can take up to 2 weeks to make in the traditional manner. Added to various foods, they impart a tangy brininess similar to that of olives but with the unique perfume of lemon. In most Moroccan dishes only the peel is used, the pulp being scraped away and discarded. However, the pulp is not wholly without value, making a delicious addition to Bloody Marys, and to salad dressings — wherever a salty-sour taste is welcome. The recipe below is an effort to approximate preserved lemons without having to plan a week or more in advance.

We like this stew with egg noodles (12 ounces of dried pasta), cooked and tossed with two tablespoons of reduced-fat sour cream and a quarter cup of chopped fresh dill.

Fresh horseradish can have very intense flavor and heat, which is why we start with a small amount — taste the sauce and add more only if desired.

Marge Dawson of Ivoryton, Connecticut, writes: "My daughter and I went to Thali, an Indian restaurant in New Canaan, Connecticut, and had a superb meal. I have never been a fan of rice pudding, but their version was out of this world. Is there any chance you could get the recipe?"

When you're ready to slice these eggs, be sure to wipe your knife clean between every cut or you'll get the pink pickling liquid smeared on the yolk.