Cookbooks

THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST HAS A CORNUCOPIA OF MUSHROOMS: morels and porcini in the spring, chanterelles and black trumpets in the fall and winter, and fresh shatakes all year round. Earthy mushrooms bring a new dimension to stuffing. Serve the mushroom stuffing with Kale-Stuffed Chicken Breasts (page 118) or on its own as a vegetarian main course.

SWEET, SALTY OYSTERS AND SPICY SAUSAGE are the stars of this classic American stuffing. This is great for Thanksgiving and perfect with most meat or poultry dishes.

ANYONE WHO’S COOKED WITH ME KNOWS I LOVE CAPERS. (If I had my way, I’d write a caper cookbook.) Here’s a dish I’ve made at home for years that we now sell at Pasta & Co. The rich flavor of cauliflower balances perfectly with the lemon and capers, while the red onion gives the dish a hint of color and a little crunch.

This confit is truly versatile. It can be used as a thickener in a soup or sauce, a flavor and texture boost to potato salad, or a filling for pork or beef sandwiches.

THIS COLORFUL CASSEROLE is reminiscent of lasagne, but it uses vegetables in place of pasta. It’s a great main dish for vegetarians and does double duty as a vegetable side dish that is reminiscent of a starch dish. While the recipe requires several steps, each element can be made ahead and then assembled at the last minute.

THIS IS A RECIPE WE CREATED FOR BEECHER’S. Although it was popular, it didn’t keep well in the store format so we stopped selling it, much to the disappointment of our loyal customers. We get asked for the recipe for this classic cheesy potato dish all the time, so here it is.

THIS RECIPE WAS INSPIRED BY DOLMADES, the classic Greek appetizer. Mustard greens, a deliciously bitter leaf, stand in for grape leaves, and the earthiness of celery root and the bite of sheep’s-milk cheese complete this healthy, hearty dish that your vegetarian—and nonvegetarian—friends will love. It’s important to use fresh herbs instead of dried in this recipe because these ingredients aren’t cooked and dried herbs wouldn’t be fully reconstituted.

KALE SEEMS TO INTIMIDATE PEOPLE. Maybe it’s the large dark green leaves and the tough thick stalks that spill over the grocery bins. Whatever the reason, it’s a shame. Leafy kale is one of the most nutritious vegetables around and extremely versatile. This recipe takes a detour from the classic gratin: Brown rice replaces potatoes, and the earthiness of the kale creates a healthy, hearty side dish. You can use any variety of kale in this dish, but my favorite is the dinosaur variety for its full flavor.

LARGE, MEATY PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS were made for stuffing. This is a fabulous vegetarian entrée, with colorful vegetables and a creamy filling.

PARSNIPS HAVE NEVER CAUGHT ON IN THE UNITED STATES, but I love them for their earthy sweetness when roasted. A cousin of the carrot, parsnips are at their best in the fall and winter months. This puree is a great substitute for mashed potatoes and can be served alone or with additional ingredients, such as Roasted Butternut Squash and Fuji Apple (recipes follow), to create extra layers of flavor.

THE MUCH-MALIGNED BRUSSELS SPROUT can be the hit of the dinner table with just a few added ingredients. A sprinkling of garlic bread crumbs on top gives a nice crunch.

SMOKY BLUE CHEESE ADDS A DECISIVE TANG to ordinary mashed potatoes, and yams lend a great color and flavor. These creamy potatoes are a wonderful accompaniment to the Pan-Roasted Orange-Paprika Carrots (page 146) or virtually any meat dish in the book.

THIS IS A TRIPLE-ORANGE VEGETABLE DISH: bright orange carrots, paprika, and orange juice come together to create a vibrant side dish.

AFTER WALKING BY A BIN OF LOCALLY GROWN, knobby brown sunchokes one autumn afternoon, I became curious about this unusual ingredient. Also known as Jerusalem artichokes, they taste like a cross between an artichoke heart and a potato and are at their best in the fall and winter months. If you can’t find sunchokes, substitute Yukon Gold potatoes.

ROASTING VEGETABLES BRINGS OUT THEIR TRUE FLAVORS, and tossing them in a vinaigrette before roasting accentuates the flavors even more. Although red bell peppers are not an autumn vegetable, they add an undeniable flavor and color contrast to the other vegetables. Cut the vegetables into uniform pieces to ensure even cooking.

LET’S FACE IT: STEAMED BROCCOLI IS BORING, but pan-roasting broccoli in a dab of butter produces a vegetable even a kid would eat. To spice it up, I often throw in a mashed garlic clove and 1/8 teaspoon red pepper flakes.

IF YOU’VE GOT THE GRILL ON, nothing is easier than grilling sweet onions and fennel. Tossed with a balsamic dressing, the rich, caramelized flavors make a great side dish for meat, including Grilled New York Steak with Balsamic-Mushroom Ragout (page 136).

Any type of mushroom can be used in the ragout, but we prefer crimini, which are flavorful, good sized, and reasonably priced. If you use portobello mushrooms, remove the black gills.