Cookbooks

FRUIT SALADS ARE BEST when based on what’s in season. While the fruit may change, I always use a delicious vanilla syrup that works wonders with any combination. Below is a list of what fruits you’ll find in season that pair well in this salad.

WITH A CHOCOLATE CRUST and a creamy espresso filling, this pie is like a mocha cappuccino disguised as dessert. Here are a few tricks for a successful pie: Make sure the butter and cream for the filling are at room temperature, and remember to scrape the sides of the bowl frequently as you mix. For serving, cut the pie with a knife that’s been dipped in hot water and wiped dry.

THIS CREAMY CHEESECAKE IS MUCH LIGHTER THAN the classic New York cheesecake. Instead of cream cheese, we use Beecher’s Honey Blank Slate, a naturally cultured, soft, fresh farmer’s cheese blended with Washington State honey, but a good substitute is fresh ricotta cheese mixed with honey. One tip for a successful cheesecake: Before serving, run a knife around the edge to separate it from the pan. This will help prevent the cheesecake from cracking. Top the cheesecake with Caramel Sauce (page 183) or Northwest Berry Syrup (page 221).

THE WASHINGTON STATE CLIMATE IS IDEAL for pear trees, and year-round our local markets stock endless varieties, such as sweet Anjou, aromatic Bosc, sweet and juicy Yellow Bartlett, and the crisp Comice. Pear and ginger play off each other in an interesting way, with the heat of ginger cutting the sweetness of the fruit. Be sure to use slightly underripe fruit for the best texture; overripe fruit has too much moisture for this pie.

Using the oven to toast nuts is best. You get more uniformly toasted nuts than in a skillet on the stove, and there’s less chance of burning them (if you set a timer, that is). Let toasted nuts cool completely before using them in a recipe or storing in an airtight container.

The secret to a flaky crust is keeping the dough cold and rolling it between two sheets of plastic wrap. Do not roll the dough on a floured surface because that only incorporates more flour, pressing it into the butter and reducing the flakiness of the crust.

This short pie crust dough is lighter and crispier than the Flaky Pie Crust Dough (page 194).

OUR EXECUTIVE CHEF AND PASTRY GURU (and hazelnut lover) Lura Smith has made this rich, dense torte for fifteen years to celebrate the hazelnuts of the region. The torte is made with agave syrup, a natural substitute for corn syrup. Agave syrup is available at specialty grocery stores.

PARSNIPS HAVE A DEEPER, MORE SOULFUL FLAVOR than carrots, and this hearty root vegetable takes center stage in our version of a carrot cake. Sweet and spiced with ginger and cloves, this moist cake makes a great birthday cake or anytime cake.

THERE IS NO BETTER BOUNTY OF NORTHWEST SUMMERS than local berries. Strawberries arrive first, followed in rapid succession by raspberries, blueberries, blackberries, and cherries. (Cherries are technically a stone fruit, but to locals they are the grand marshal in our parade of summer berries.) Try any of these fruits in this easy parfait. Sliced peaches and nectarines are a welcome addition; whatever fruit is at its peak in the market will be your best choice. The addition of simple syrup enhances the natural sweetness of the fruit and adds a beautiful gloss. You can make the syrup ahead and refrigerate it in a sealed container for a week. This is a simple, elegant dessert—perfect for a relaxed summer evening.

THIS IS A FAMILY FAVORITE. We use a scone-like shortbread with a kick of orange zest as the base and Beecher’s Blank Slate cheese, which contrasts nicely with the sweetness of the strawberries and the rich, buttery flavor of the shortcake. Any tart fresh cheese, such as fromage blanc, will work, or leave out the cheese and use 1 1/2 cups heavy cream.

Besides serving this with the apple crisps, we use it as a sauce for cheesecake (see page 201). This basic caramel sauce also tastes great over ice cream.

THERE ARE MANY WAYS TO SHOW OFF APPLES in desserts, but warm apple crisps are always a favorite. Nine varieties of apple are grown in Washington State, including Gala, Braeburn, Cripps Pink, and Granny Smith. Use a mixture of your favorite apples, including one sweet variety, such as Fuji or Jonagold, and a more tart variety, such as Granny Smith or Cripps Pink. If you’d prefer to make one large crisp, use a 9 × 13-inch baking dish.

MORE RHUBARB IS GROWN IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST than in any other region of the country, meaning you’ll often see rhubarb on dessert menus in local restaurants from April through September. Although rhubarb is technically a vegetable, its tart flavor lends itself to being treated like a fruit. Adding sugar and cooking the thick stalks softens the flavor. Strawberries and rhubarb are a classic combination, and they’re even better accented with a little orange zest. These bars are a perfect portable dessert for lunchboxes and picnic baskets.

THE KEY TO THESE SWEET AND CHUNKY apricot bars is using the highest-quality apricot preserves possible. Look for the word preserves on the label rather than jam or jelly; preserves have more fruit chunks. (Artificial colors are sometimes added to apricot jams, jelly, and preserves, so check the list of ingredients on the label.) These are a great dessert for a picnic or a bake sale because they’re easy to transport and stay fresh for days.

IF YOU THINK YOU DON’T LIKE GINGER, these cookies are sure to change your mind. With cloves, cinnamon, and ginger, these soft, chewy cookies have a bite all their own. Ground ginger has a more intense flavor than fresh and is ideal for baking. The only way to improve on these cookies is to sandwich vanilla ice cream between pairs of them. (See photograph on page 174.)

SNICKERDOODLE IS ANOTHER NAME FOR a vanilla butter cookie covered in cinnamon sugar. Light and soft in texture, they’re simple to make. Cut them into shapes, such as triangles, before baking and dip the pieces in melted chocolate once they’re cool for a fun dessert. They also make the perfect cookie for ice cream sandwiches. (See photograph on page 174.)

THIS SWEET AND SAVORY STUFFING offers a textural element in every bite. It is a perfect side for poultry dishes.

IF YOU KNOW A CHOCOHOLIC, THEN START BAKING. These intense chocolate cookies are made with three types of chocolate—unsweetened, semisweet, and cocoa powder—for maximum flavor, but have a light-as-air texture. They are incredibly satisfying without being dense or heavy.