Crispy Spring Rolls (Cha Gio)

Cha gio are traditionally made with rice paper wrappers. But the wrappers available in the United States are thicker than those used in Vietnam and, while fine for raw summer rolls, don't fry well — their thickness makes them too sticky. For fried spring rolls, Pham suggests using thin Chinese-style wheat wrappers. Do not be tempted to substitute wonton wrappers, which are also too thick. • Bean thread noodles, also called glass or cellophane noodles, are thin, transparent, wiry noodles made from mung bean starch. They're sold dried at Asian grocery stores and many supermarkets. • Tree ears, also called wood ears, cloud ears, or black fungus, are thin black mushrooms that add crunch to many Asian dishes. They're sold dried in Asian markets. "Avoid the larger two-toned mushrooms as they can be tough and gritty, especially around the stems," says Pham. • Fish sauce (nuoc mam), a pungent, salty liquid made from fermented anchovies, adds depth and flavor to numerous Vietnamese dishes. For best results, choose bottles priced at $3 to $4 rather than $1, and pass on jars that are dark, which indicates oxidation or the presence of additives. "Look for fish sauce in glass jars. Avoid plastic," says Pham. "The fish sauce should have a nice, even color, like iced tea." She suggests Three Crabs, Lobster Boy, and Phu Quoc brands. When cooking with fish sauce, always add it to other liquids: Never place it directly in a hot, dry pan, which would broadcast its pungent, fishy odor throughout your kitchen in a less-than-pleasant way. Soy sauce is an acceptable vegetarian substitute, though it does lack fish sauce's smoky complexity. • Like dough, spring roll filling should not be overmixed or it will become too dense. Use your hands or a fork to gently mix the ingredients together.