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Chickpea and Lentil Soup

Harira is the generic term for a soup full of pulses—chickpeas, lentils, or beans—with little meat, few vegetables, and plenty of herbs and spices. Every day during the holy month of Ramadan, when Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset, the smell of this soup permeates the streets as every household prepares its own version to be eaten when the sound of the cannon signals the breaking of the fast. While ingredients and spices vary, a particular feature is the way it is given what is described in Morocco as a “velvety” touch by stirring in a sourdough batter or simply flour mixed with water. In the cities in Morocco, it serves as a one-dish evening meal, and in rural areas it is also eaten as breakfast before peasants go out to work in the fields. During Ramadan, it is served with lemon quarters and accompanied by dates and honeyed pastries. The soup can be made a long time in advance, but if you are adding the tiny bird’s-tongue pasta—douida in Morocco (you find it in Middle Eastern stores), orzo in Italian stores (or you can use broken vermicelli)—these should be added only about 10 to 15 minutes before you are ready to serve, otherwise they will get bloated and mushy. I have given measurements for a large quantity because it is a rich, substantial soup that you might like to serve as a one-dish meal at a party. The best cuts of meat to use are shoulder or neck fillet.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 10

Ingredients

2 marrowbones, washed (optional)
1 pound lamb or beef
2 large onions, chopped coarsely
1 cup chickpeas, soaked overnight
3/4 cup large brown lentils, rinsed
1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
4 celery stalks, diced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon ground ginger
2 sticks cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon saffron threads or powder or 1 teaspoon turmeric
Salt
5 tablespoons all-purpose flour
5 ounces orzo (bird’s-tongue) pasta or broken vermicelli (optional)
Juice of 1 lemon
3/4 cup chopped cilantro
1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
To serve: 3 lemons, cut into quarters; dates (optional)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    If using marrowbones, blanch them in boiling water for a few minutes, then throw out the water. Put the bones in a large pan with the meat, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, the onions, and the drained chickpeas. Cover with about 13 cups water and bring to the boil. Remove the scum and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.

    Step 2

    Remove the bones (if using), scoop out the soft marrow with a knife, and drop it back into the soup.

    Step 3

    Add the lentils, tomatoes, celery (include some leaves), tomato paste, pepper, ginger, cinnamon, and saffron or turmeric. Simmer 15 minutes more, adding more water, if necessary, as the level drops, and salt when the lentils begin to soften.

    Step 4

    In the meantime, put the flour in a small pan and gradually add 2 1/4 cups cold water, a little at a time, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon to blend well and to avoid lumps. Put over a medium heat and stir constantly until the mixture thickens, then simmer for 10 minutes. Pour this batter into the soup, stirring vigorously, and cook for a few minutes, until the soup acquires a light, creamy texture.

    Step 5

    If you are using the tiny pasta or vermicelli (crush the vermicelli with your hand into small pieces), add this to the soup 10 minutes or so from the end, adding the lemon juice, chopped cilantro, and parsley at the same time.

    Step 6

    Serve with lemon wedges and, if you like, dates.

  2. variation

    Step 7

    Instead of meat, you can use 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken, preferably thighs, and crumble in 3 chicken bouillon cubes.

Arabesque
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