Chicken and Sausage Gumbo

No matter what you’ve heard, there is no one definitive or best gumbo recipe out there. Gumbo is a deeply personal dish and there are as many versions of it as there are cooks in Louisiana, perhaps even more. There are Cajun gumbos, Creole gumbos, and numerous variations, like the one served at New Orleans restaurant Turkey and the Wolf with tamarind paste and potato chips

This rendition keeps things fairly classic with the “holy trinity” of onions, celery, and green peppers, a roux, and chicken stock. Andouille sausage adds smokiness that’s balanced by the chicken, and okra helps thicken the stew. Some argue that there’s no gumbo without filé powder, so we’ve made it optional. Made from sassafras leaves that are dried and ground, it further thickens the dish. It’s crucial that it’s added at the end of the cooking, just before serving, and never allowed to boil, which makes it bitter.

If you prefer gumbo with tomatoes—a nod to Creole tradition—give this one a try, and if you’re not a fan of okra, this rendition is made without. No matter the recipe, rice is a good accompaniment.

Editor’s note: This recipe was originally published in the January 2012 issue of Bon Appétit.