Fennel

Chef Ludovic LeFebvre writes: "I'm looking forward to the opening of my restaurant, Ludo, this fall. It's going to be different from the elaborate French cuisine I've done in the past: People are interested in lighter and healthier foods now, and I want my cooking to reflect that. For me, that means using the best ingredients in simple ways. "Before coming to America, I apprenticed with some of France's best chefs, like Marc Meneau and Alain Passard. I was lucky to have such great teachers, but after two years of working 17-hour days, it was time for a change. Moving to Los Angeles definitely altered my work habits. My days in the kitchen are shorter, and there's more opportunity to enjoy cooking at home. " Sophisticated flavors; simple techniques. Serve with crusty bread.

A 1980 charter signed by 11 restaurants (7 in Marseille) dictates what kinds of fish form the basis of an authentic local bouillabaisse. These are generally unavailable here, so we suggest using the freshest nonoily fish you can get, preferably three to five different kinds. As long as we were taking liberties, we also added lobster and used fennel fronds in place of pastis. And though the broth and croutons are usually served separately from the fish itself in Marseille, we enjoyed everything together. Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

This recipe is an accompaniment for Grilled Brined Salmon and Eggplant with Fennel Cucumber Relish.

Nancy Scott of Cranston, Rhode Island, writes: "I attended a wine tasting festival in Newport a while ago and enjoyed a shrimp ceviche prepared by Andrew Dicataldo, the executive chef of Patria, in New York City. Can you get the recipe?" In this recipe, the shrimp are cooked by quickly boiling them, whereas in a traditional ceviche the seafood, marinated in a spicy mixture of lemon or lemon-lime juice, appears cooked but isn't. Active time: 2 hr Start to finish: 2 hr

Although bisques tend to be thick and creamy, the following intensely flavorful version is light, with very little cream added.

This ragù would also be excellent served over instant polenta instead of pasta.

Both the tomato coulis and the salsa can be made up to one day ahead.

Active time: 2 hr Start to finish: 3 1/2 hr (includes making stock)

The fresh flavors of fennel and orange make this simple fish dish shine. You can serve it alone or with a helping of rice.

These make-ahead savory pies are wonderful centerpiece dishes for a casual dinner.

Team this outstanding entrée with some steamed broccoli and a fruity Zinfandel.

Complement this thick soup with plenty of crusty French bread.

Bruce Aidells, founder of Aidell's Sausage Company, says, "I first discovered that fennel was a delicious vegetable while enjoying Christmas Eve dinner at the home of a dear friend of mine, the late cooking teacher Loni Kuhn. At her own family's holiday meals, a gratin of fennel, potatoes and cheese was a much appreciated standard. The mild anise flavor of cooked fennel goes particularly well with roast turkey or roast pork, and it has been a regular at my family's holiday table for more than twenty years."