French

Imagine peanut brittle that is as delicate as lace, with the familiar buttery crunch.

Every holiday deserves a really special dessert. And this classic French creation — a large ring of airy choux pastry filled with the richest praline pastry cream — does the season proud. If you think it resembles a bicycle wheel, you're right: It's named after an 1891 bicycle race that ran from Paris to Brest and back again, and was the precursor of the Tour de France.

Start the confit at least two weeks ahead. This would also be delicious on its own served with mashed potatoes.

The puffs can be formed and chilled or frozen on baking sheets well ahead of time, then simply popped into the oven.

Moules à la Marinière This preparation has a few variations: with or without white wine; with or without lemon; and with a different liaison. Only the shallot, a characteristic element of the "marinière," always remains. Of the different recipes for the marinière, we give the simplest, which is also the best. In this, the sauce is bound with bread crumbs. If you prefer a liaison with beurre manié, you should replace the bread crumbs with 10 grams of flour (1/3 ounce) worked with 20 grams (2/3 ounce, 1 heaping tablespoon) of butter.

The Lenz Winery, one of the oldest on Long Island, has had the same winemaker, Eric Fry, since 1989. Fry's mantra is "Ripe fruit!" — and hows in the Lenz Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine has an amazing concentration of flavors, an intense raspberry and black-cherry nose, and smooth tannins that provide a long finish. In short, it's a perfect partner for Fry's deeply flavored venison stew. In this satisfying harvest dish, venison is browned, then oven-braised in wine. Fry puts any leftovers on a roll for lunch.

Traditionally, this Mediterranean fish soup is spooned over slices of toasted bread that have been rubbed with garlic. In this version, it is served with fresh bread (see the Lemon and Rosemary Fougasse recipe) and aioli — for stirring into the soup or spreading on the bread.

Chicken, not fish, is the star in this version of the hearty Provençal soup. IMPROV: Make this dish even more flavorful by adding a faux rouille. Combine 1/2 cup mayonnaise with 2 minced garlic cloves, 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon paprika; season with salt and pepper. Top each serving with a dollop.

Fougasse is a favorite in southern France. It is said that the holes cut into the flatbread served a very specific purpose — they allowed a field worker to slip his arm through and carry the bread to work along with his tools. Serve this with the Bourride or as an appetizer, brushed with a little olive oil.

Chestnuts are a big industry in the Languedoc; the region provides most of the French supply of the chestnut confection marrons glacés.

Chef Michael Presnal of The Federal Restaurant in Agawam, Massachusett, writes: "The recipe here was featured on one of my first menus as a chef, before I got into the kind of complex cooking I do now at The Federal. That was over ten years ago, but I still love making this dish at home. It calls for just a few fresh ingredients and takes only a couple of steps." A French country dessert that's like pudding and tender cake all in one.

Spear fruit with skewers and dip it into the butterscotch, then dip into the nuts and crème fraîche.

Based on a classic pâte brisée, the buttery French pastry dough used for making pies and tarts, this pie crust dough is easy to work with and wonderfully versatile.

If you don't have peach brandy on hand, use additional white wine instead.

You can find the Neufchâtel cheese called for here next to the cream cheese at your supermarket. Don't be alarmed by the holes in your coeur à la crème molds — they allow liquid to drain out of the bottom so the hearts will be firm enough to hold their shape.

This terrine is a beautiful — and unusual — way to showcase fresh summer vegetables. While there's nothing like truly fresh peas, if what's available seems particularly starchy, use frozen instead.

Alexis Watson of Irvine, California, writes: "You could say I'm a bit obsessive when it comes to cooking. Often I'll take a particular recipe and spend months perfecting it, as I've done with the crème brûlée."