European

GOOD TO KNOW Made by beating egg whites—no yolks—with sugar until stiff peaks form, meringue provides a versatile, fat-free base for all kinds of desserts. Here, scoops of meringue are poached until just firm, then chilled and served with raspberry purée.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Gazpacho is traditionally made with pieces of stale bread as a thickener. In this lightened version, vegetables alone contribute heft, and toasted bread is offered as an optional side.

SMART SUBSTITUTION Using part-skim cheeses—such as the ricotta and mozzarella in this recipe—in place of full-fat versions is one easy way to make a favorite pasta dish healthier. And before they are filled and rolled, the eggplant slices are baked, without any oil, instead of being breaded and fried.

SMART SUBSTITUTION To make this popular Italian dessert lighter, use reduced-fat cream cheese and skim milk in place of the traditional heavy cream. Thanks to the semisweet chocolate, it still tastes rich.

WHY IT’S LIGHT This Italian restaurant standby turns virtuous with baked (instead of fried) eggplant and a healthier béchamel made from skim milk, which is then combined with some marinara sauce. Using less cheese also helps; here, the two cheeses are sprinkled only on top, rather than in each layer.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Lamb is naturally tender and flavorful; shoulder meat is leaner than other cuts (such as loin or sirloin chops). You may substitute any other lean cut of meat, such as cubed beef chuck, pork shoulder, or boneless, skinless chicken thighs.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Only one side of the chicken is breaded here, and an egg white instead of a whole egg is used to bind the whole-wheat crumbs to the meat. Serve the chicken with a side of whole-wheat spaghetti tossed with olive oil and fresh herbs, or a simple salad.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Since they contain no butter or oil, these crunchy, nut-studded treats are significantly lower in fat than other cookies. Whole-wheat flour gives the wholesome biscotti extra fiber.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Using light mayonnaise (and a bit of water) in the dressing considerably reduces the calories and fat. Lime juice and chili powder contribute unexpected flavor notes while still keeping the whole thing light.

The Linzer cookie, thought to have originated in the city of Linz, is based on the Linzertorte, one of the most famous and beloved confections in Austria. The cookies are like mini versions of the torte, which consists of a buttery dough, rich with ground almonds or hazelnuts, spread with jam—usually raspberry or apricot these days, but originally with black or red currant jam or jelly—and then topped with a lattice of more dough before baking. You don't see Linzertortes often on this side of the Atlantic because the Linzer cookie is so much easier to make and delivers the same wonderful interplay of flavors. With its snowy dusting of confectioners' sugar and glistening red raspberry jam filling, which peeks out from the center of the sandwich cookie, it definitely screams "holiday."

Olives, garlic, herbs, tomato, and wine come together in this short rib dish, a nod to the warm and sunny flavors of Provence. A shower of freshly grated orange zest at the finale brightens the rich braised beef with a citrus zing. This recipe makes a deeply satisfying main dish for Hanukkah or any other celebratory occasion.

This dish of Lidia’s is what I make for supper when I return home tired and hungry after traveling. I like it very plain, with lots of parsley, but you could spice it up by adding a pinch of dried chile flakes or chopped anchovy, and serving it with grated cheese.

This is a good soup to make in the fall months when mature leeks are at their flavorful peak and are plentiful in the markets. It is a traditional French soup that is typically puréed, but I prefer it with a clear chicken broth and sliced vegetables.

Making your own bread is immensely satisfying. At the Green Kitchen, we had demonstrations of two very quick ways to put bread on your table: Darina’s traditional Irish soda bread and Scott Peacock’s buttermilk biscuits (page 33). Neither of these recipes requires the dough to sit for hours while it rises, because neither of them relies on yeast. Instead they are lightened by the chemical reaction that occurs between the buttermilk and the baking soda (or baking powder) when the dough goes into the oven. For this book, I’ve added a third recipe, this one for Jim Lahey’s yeast bread (page 35). Jim, proprietor of the Sullivan Street Bakery in New York, has a brilliant method of making a country loaf that develops flavor in a long, slow rise, but which, like Darina’s soda bread, requires no kneading at all. None of these three recipes is complicated. Darina’s soda bread is something I make at home all the time. From start to finish, you can have fresh bread in less than an hour.

In the south of France, an aïoli is both the garlic and olive oil mayonnaise sauce itself and the dish for which it is the raison d’être, which can be either grand or petit. Le grand aïoli is a festive Provençal free-for-all meal in itself, typically consisting of the sauce in its mortar surrounded by platters of seasonal vegetables (cauliflower, carrots, beets, green beans, artichokes, potatoes) all freshly boiled; poached salt cod and stewed octopus; and tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs. Summer is the time for an aïoli extravaganza; with crisp cold rosé wine, it is the perfect dish on a hot evening. Garlic is juicy and firm and in season, and the summer vegetables that are so good with the garlic mayonnaise are plentiful. The ingredients listed below are suggestions; add whatever vegetables and fish you like.

Pesto is a traditional pasta sauce, but it is also a delicious sauce for grilled vegetables and chicken, salads, and pizzas, and a perfect final flavoring to a bean and vegetable soup.

At one time, my fondness for crêpes almost led me to open a crêperie. Friends prevailed and I opened a restaurant instead, but crêpes are still one of my favorite desserts—especially made with buckwheat flour. The batter is best made a day in advance.

Homemade candied orange or tangerine peel (page 382) makes this soufflé special.

Homemade apricot jam is the secret to this easy soufflé. Plum jam and citrus marmalades are also good choices for soufflés.