Risotto

In Alba, and throughout the region of Piedmont, a pumpkin-like squash called zucca is found on many fall menus. Butternut squash substitutes nicely here.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. If you have Arborio rice on hand, use it in place of long-grained rice.

Barley gives this a wonderful chewy texture.

Bourdain embellishes this risotto with black truffle shavings, but we thought it was delicious even without them. We opted for a cost-effective alternative — drizzling the risotto with truffle oil just before serving.

"Being a vegetarian, I was delighted to find a hearty meatless main dish at the Stamford Plaza hotel in Auckland, New Zealand," writes Barbara Abbott of Santa Rosa, California. "The mushroom risotto was outstanding; I'd be pleased if you could get the recipe."

This risotto has the classic creamy yet al dente texture and features a combination of Parmesan cheese and seafood. Contrary to popular belief, Italians do partner cheese with seafood in some dishes; we recommend it here without reservation.

Arborio is a short-grain Italian rice that is one of four varieties typically used for risotto in Italy-the other three are Baldo, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano. Arborio can be found at Italian markets here, and is becoming increasingly available at supermarkets.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A fruity, spicy Sauvignon Blanc would be perfect with this elegant dish.

(Risotto con Regagli) The thrifty Italian Jewish cook wasted no part of the chicken. And it's easy for us to buy inexpensive giblets for this rich and delectable risotto. Donatella Pavoncello, in her delightful Dal 1880 ad oggi: la cucina dalla mia famiglia, cooks the rice in the giblet sauce and spoons some reserved sauce on top. I find it's easier to make the sauce, cook the rice, and then combine the two. That way you don't run the risk of gummy overcooked rice. Incidentally, this sauce is also wonderful tossed with pappardelle.