Gratin

Nice, being by the sea, offers interesting fish dishes. One of these is poutargue, made with dried and smoked roe, which you will find in some delicatessen shops. The roe should be grated or finely chopped. To every 2 cups add 1 cup chopped hard-cooked egg, 1 cup finely chopped onion, a dash of lemon juice and enough olive oil to blend all. Another dish from the sea is raïto or rayte. This is traditional on Christmas Eve throughout Provence. It is reminiscent of other fish stews, including the chioppino of California.

Great-tasting ingredients add up to a thoroughly satisfying meatless entrée that's perfect for a cool autumn evening.

All you need to complete the meal is a simple green salad and your favorite Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon.

(TORTINO DI PATATE ALLA PARMIGIANA) Gratins made from potatoes and other vegetables have long been a part of the country cooking around Parma. Here's a rich one that takes advantage of a star ingredient: Parmesan cheese. The dish is often served during Lent or on other meatless days.

This very ancient dish of pickled salmon is of Swedish origin, and considered by a great many Scandinavians to be superior to smoked salmon. It must be made with fresh fish that has never been frozen, and with a plentiful supply of fresh dill weed.

Cheese production increased in the nineteenth century when dairy cooperatives were formed in Minnesota and Wisconsin; now, that area of the country is known for making outstanding cheese. In this recipe, white cheddar goes into a rich and creamy potato gratin that is a great substitute for — or, at a particularly lavish feast, a fine accompaniment to — mashed potatoes.

This recipe is an accompaniment for Roasted Pork Chops with Serrano Ham Vinaigrette .

Canned salmon (with soft, edible bones) and potatoes are good sources of calcium.

Marshmallows need not apply: This gratin gets a savory Parmesan cheese topping.

Roasting the lamb on a large oven or cake rack that's placed over the gratin dish allows its succulent juices to flavor the vegetables. This spring dish is one of my favorite recipes from Bistro Cooking (Workman, 1989), by Patricia Wells.

Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 1 3/4 hr