Smoke

The instructions given here are for a standard 22-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different types of barbecues.

I prefer pork loin from the rib end of the loin because it has a little more fat and a better flavor.

In this recipe, a "dry rub" of brown sugar, pepper, paprika and salt flavors the meat before it is cooked, and a vinegary "mop" is brushed onto the pork to add more taste as it is smoked. Once cooked, the meat is "pulled," that is, shredded into slivers that are just the right size for piling onto a bun. The sandwich —drizzled with a bit of the vinegary sauce, which cuts the richness of the meat — is the ultimate in Carolina barbecue. Cook this in a smoker or a barbecue that has been converted to a smoker.

Slowly cooked ribs glazed with a spicy-sweet tomato-based sauce are the signature of K.C. barbecue. If you don't have a smoker, cook the ribs in a barbecue that has been converted to one. It may be necessary to cut the racks into four- to five-rib portions so that they all fit on the grill at once.

To make these slow-cooked ribs, the barbecue is used like a smoker. The instructions given here are for a standard 22 1/2-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different brands of barbecues, and it may be necessary to cut the rib racks into four- or five-rib portions so that they’ll all fit on the grill. The only special equipment needed is a charcoal chimney, which is available at most home and garden stores and hardware stores.

Because the heat on individual grills varies, cooking times will range from about 30 minutes to one hour. Be sure to regulate the barbecue so that the wood chips smoke and the briquettes burn but do not flame. When the salmon is ready, it will have a nice firm texture and a lovely sweet glaze. For drinks, offer coffee, orange juice and mimosas.

Pork shoulder bacon may not get quite as crisp as belly bacon, but it has a great taste and a meaty texture. Even if you have a thermometer for your grill, you'll still need an instant-read — the grill thermometer won't register low enough to monitor the cold-smoking.

While our directions call for lighting the grill with a charcoal chimney, feel free to use whatever method you prefer.