Saute

This spicy vegetarian curry is hearty enough for a comforting fall dinner. It's great simply ladled over steamed rice.

This slightly unusual side dish takes the place of your standard green beans, lending a light and crunchy contrast to the heavier, puréed dishes in this menu. (Most people don't think of cooking jicama, but we love its crisp water-chestnut-like texture, raw or sautéed.)

We were happy to learn that some brands of frozen naan are remarkably good.

The hearty greens in this dish retain a bit of their pleasing crunch.

This dish was the surprise of the year. The ingredients might seem ordinary, but trust us — it's fantastic.

The flavor combinations in this creamy yet light soup are complex, but making it is very easy. Like the best appetizers, the soup wakes up the palate and is not too filling.

Most chestnut soups are fairly substantial. We've made our version lighter and brothier to serve as a first course for a big meal. Chopped chestnuts mixed with tangy croutons add texture and extra layers of complexity.

Frittata di Ricotta The best ricotta is a farmer's jewel—thick, tangy, and, contrary to health regulations, unpasteurized. But we eat it anyway, at room temperature with a spoon, like kids skimming cream off the top of milk. Around Garfagnana, the mountain town where my mom grew up, this frittata is a staple, but is never served as an individual dish; the frittatas they made were huge and were sliced into single servings. You can't beat it for a buffet. It's also great with tomato sauce on top. Make sure to use the highest quality ricotta you can find.

Despite their name, Champagne grapes aren't used to make the sparkling wine. Legend has it that the grapes were so named because the tiny clusters of fruit resemble the bubbles in a glass of Champagne. What to drink: A crisp, ripe white. Try: Icon 2004 Sauvignon Blanc, House of Nobilo, Marlborough, New Zealand ($20).

Every visitor to Paumanok Vineyards enjoys a warm welcome from owners Ursula and Charles Massoud. She learned viticulture in her parents' vineyards in Germany; he taught himself to make wine when his job with IBM took the family to the Middle East. Ursula, who is known for her outstanding comfort food, pairs Paumanok's semi-dry Riesling with an onion tart she makes at harvest time. "It's traditional in my hometown to serve it when the Riesling juice is still fermenting. The sweetness of the onions matches the sweetness of the new wine."

Fresh muscats are somewhat difficult to find, but they're worth seeking out for their musky flavor. what to drink: A smooth white. Try: La Crema 2003 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley ($24). The chicken paillards would also be wonderful paired with Robert Sinskey Vineyards 2004 Los Carneros Pinot Blanc, Napa ($18).

Use the season's first wild mushrooms in this satisfying vegetarian pasta.