Gourmet

This is probably the simplest soup ever made from scratch: you just throw everything into the pot at once and walk away. The rice cooks in the pot along with the chicken long enough to give its starches over for extra body. Everything you dislike about brown rice — its starchiness and heaviness — works to advantage here. It turns soft and almost falls apart but still has texture. Don't substitute white rice, because it would get mushy. This soup may not be beautiful, but it sure is good.

Saffron Risotto An Italian classic, traditionally served with Osso Buco , this dish also makes a great accompaniment to the Whole Red Snapper Baked in a Salt Crust .

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

GELATO DI PESCA This recipe was sensational when we made it with ripe, flavorful peaches. If your peaches aren't great, try something similar, like nectarines.

This vibrant, aromatic Moroccan spice blend makes an excellent addition to lamb burgers or roasted chicken.

These custards are inspired by the Japanese egg custard chawan mushi, made with dashi broth (a stock of dried kelp and dried bonito flakes). We've used chicken broth for simplicity, but any broth or stock that you have on hand will work fine. Steaming the custards gives them a delicate texture, which is enhanced by the spare use of solid ingredients (the shrimp, scallion, and mushrooms).

At Valentino, pastry chef Michelle Robie cuts the cake into individual heart shapes and sometimes serves them with a blood orange sauce.

Lovers of hummus will appreciate this reduced-fat version. This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 25 min

This celery looks very much like the variety found in most supermarkets, but its stems are thinner and it has an abundance of leaves that resemble Italian parsley. Cooking mellows Chinese celery's pronounced flavor — for a stir-fry, it's often blanched first. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

When selecting persimmons for the following recipe, be sure to get the acorn-shaped Hachiya variety and not the flatter, wider type called Fuyu. Look for very ripe specimens, which should feel quite soft and have glossy, translucent skin.