Cookbooks

These savory cheese puffs are a specialty of Burgundy, France, and are the perfect accompaniment to a cocktail or glass of wine. We’ve flavored our version with fresh herbs, but feel free to omit them. To prepare the gougères in advance, pipe the dough, top with cheese, and freeze on a baking sheet until firm; transfer to resealable plastic bags, and freeze until ready to bake, up to three weeks.

This famous French pastry is commonly known as mille-feuille (“a thousand leaves”). The name is believed to be derived from the term “Napolitain,” alluding to the tradition of layered desserts in Naples, Italy.

The puff pastry can be baked a day in advance; keep in an airtight container at room temperature. The blueberry sauce can be refrigerated for up to three days.

This classic tart has a filling of frangipane (an almond-flavored cream) and caramelized pears enclosed between two layers of puff pastry. The tart is named for the French town in which it was created. It is best eaten the day it is baked.

If you want to quickly cool the hot custard, pour it into a large bowl set in a larger bowl filled with ice and cold water. Stirring the custard frequently will help to cool it even faster.

Turnovers are always a favorite; their light Puff Pastry shells burst with fresh fruit. Our three fillings provide this classic dessert with a fresh twist: Five-spice powder lends its subtle aroma to pear, peach chunks blend with homemade raspberry jam, and sage plays off the sweetness of summer blueberries. All the fillings can be used interchangeably—simply prepare and fill the dough as instructed.

To help these hors d’oeuvres retain their twisted shapes, thoroughly chill them before baking. You can freeze the formed straws for up to three weeks (no need to thaw), but once they’re baked, it’s best to serve them as soon as possible.

These pastries are a specialty of Naples, Italy. The key to making them is using the freshest ricotta you can find. Do not substitute packaged ricotta, which can’t compare with artisanal varieties in terms of flavor or consistency.

If you want to give this frosting extra flavor, add a teaspoon of mint, orange, or coffee extract after the chocolate has been incorporated. To frost a four-layer cake you will need to increase the ingredients accordingly: use 24 ounces chocolate, 4 1/2 sticks butter, 3/4 cup sugar, and 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon each cocoa and boiling water. Alternatively, halving this recipe makes just enough for a standard sheet cake or a dozen cupcakes.

Ganache will thicken as it sits. To cover a cake, it should be pourable but still thick enough to coat. If not, place the bowl of ganache over a pan of simmering water and stir until it reaches the right consistency.

Ganache can be kept, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to three days. Before using, warm ganache by setting it over a saucepan of simmering water, then let cool, stirring frequently.

Fresh sour cherries usually appear in farmers’ markets in early July, but the season is short—about three weeks. If you can’t find fresh sour cherries, substitute two pounds of frozen ones; defrost before using. To make the strudel, you’ll need a large, clean cloth and a work surface that you can easily walk around, such as an island or your kitchen table.

This is an excellent all-purpose frosting that can be used to top any cake—from cupcakes to a multitiered wedding cake. Its flavor is adaptable, too; two of our favorite variations are lemon (which we paired with our Lemon Curd Cake, page 153) and chocolate (which adorns the Dobos Torte, page 203).

If not using immediately, transfer to an airtight container (icing hardens quickly when exposed to air), and store at room temperature for up to one week. Beat with a rubber spatula before using.

This recipe produces a caramel that, once cooled, is quite stiff—the ideal consistency for making bar cookies. If you plan to pour it over cake or ice cream, simply double the amount of heavy cream. This caramel can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to three days.