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Wild Mushroom Ragù

When I was working in Tuscany during porcini season I always wanted to go foraging for mushrooms, but the Italians are so secretive about where they find their prized porcini that I could never convince anyone to take me with them. So, while I never got to go hunting for fresh porcini, I did learn how to use dried ones to make this gorgeous sauce. If you’ve never used them before, dried porcini are a fantastic way to add a huge bump of mushroomy goodness to almost anything. And, because you have to soak them first, you get the added benefit of the fastest, most flavorful vegetarian stock ever; one that you can then add to your sauce to give it an even richer, earthier boost of flavor—just like I do here.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves: 4 to 6

Ingredients

1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms
Extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
Pinch of crushed red pepper
Kosher salt
2 cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped
2 pounds assorted fresh mushrooms (porcini, shiitake, oyster, and cremini are all great), trimmed, cleaned, and cut into bite-size pieces
1 cup dry white wine
1 to 2 cups chicken or veggie stock (see page 85)
1 thyme bundle, tied with butcher’s twine
1 bay leaf

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Soak the porcini in 3 cups hot water until very soft, about 30 minutes.

    Step 2

    Coat a large wide saucepan generously with olive oil and bring to medium-high heat. Add the onion and red pepper and season with salt; cook until the onion is soft and aromatic, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more.

    Step 3

    Add the fresh mushrooms, season with salt, and sauté until soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the wine and continue cooking until reduced by half, 5 to 6 minutes more.

    Step 4

    Using your hand, scoop the porcini out of the soaking water, being careful not to disturb the water—you want the crud to stay settled. Put the porcini in a food processor, ladle in about 1/2 cup of the soaking liquid, and purée to a very smooth paste.

    Step 5

    Add the porcini paste, 2 cups of the porcini water, and 1 cup of the stock to the pan; toss in the thyme bundle and the bay leaf. Taste and season with salt if needed. Bring the liquid to a boil (BTB) and reduce to a simmer (RTS). Simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, adding more stock if needed; this sauce should be saucy but not soupy. Remove the thyme bundle and bay leaf before serving. Serve tossed with pasta or gnocchi or over polenta.

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