Name: The Loftiest Soufflé
Yield: Makes 4 servings
Ingredients: 3 tablespoons unsalted butter plus more, room temperature, for ramekins; 4 tablespoons finely grated Parmesan, divided; 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour; 1 cup cold whole milk; 1 cup grated Gruyère, divided; Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg; Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper; 4 large eggs, yolks and whites separated; 1/4 teaspoon xanthan gum (optional); Four 8-ounce ramekins

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The Loftiest SouffléPenden + Munk

Here's a soufflé that can stand up for itself. Michel Richard, of Citronelle in Washington, D.C., ignores tales about soufflés that collapse when the oven is opened (a myth). Instead, he focuses on what matters: a well-seasoned base that infuses the soufflé with flavor, and properly whipped whites that achieve optimum volume as they bake. Whip the whites until firm, but stop before they get too stiff, says Richard, or the soufflé will be grainy. And quell your jitters with his 21st-century trick: Add xanthan gum to the whites. It acts as a stabilizer— resulting in the most dramatic soufflé we've made in a while.

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