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Strata: A Savory Custard

This vegetable custard calls for the same ingredients as the individual timbales that I learned to make as a youngster from my aunt Marian in Vermont and have relished ever since. It’s a good way to use up yesterday’s baguette and a leftover vegetable, to say nothing of that fallback ingredient, a piece of ham. Here I put everything into a 1 1/2 cup ceramic baking dish that has a 4 1/2-inch diameter and it fills the dish, coming out of the oven puffy and lightly tanned. It’s easier than having to unmold the individual timbales, and, of course, I eat it right from the dish as soon as it has cooled long enough not to burn my tongue.

Ingredients

About 1/2 cup stale bread, torn in small pieces, any tough crusts removed
1/4 cup milk
A slice of ham, enough to fill the bottom of the dish (leftover baked ham is particularly good here; see page 60)
A little soft butter
3 spears cooked asparagus
Salt
1 large egg
1/4 cup mixture of milk and cream or half-and-half
Freshly ground pepper
A couple of fresh sage leaves or fresh basil torn (optional)
About 1 generous tablespoon grated cheese, Parmesan or aged Cheddar or Swiss

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Put the bread in a bowl with the milk to soak for about 5 minutes, and then squeeze it through your fingers to dissolve the crumbs in the milk. Meanwhile, place the ham on the bottom of a single-portion buttered baking dish and lay the asparagus spears, cut in half, over the ham. Salt lightly. Beat the egg with the milk-cream mixture, add a little salt and freshly ground pepper, and pour that over the asparagus. Arrange optional sage leaves on top and sprinkle on the grated cheese. Bake in a preheated 350° oven for 25 minutes. Let settle for a few minutes out of the oven before you dive in.

  2. Variations

    Step 2

    You can use any number of cooked vegetables as a base here, whatever you may have lurking in the refrigerator—some broccoli (or broccolini) florets, rated zucchini, artichoke hearts, or braised fennel. If you use a leafy vegetable like spinach or chard, squeeze out all the water first.

The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved. Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.
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