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Semla

I thought Lent was a time of self-denial, but in Sweden it’s when these absolutely delicious buns appear, filled with almond paste and whipped cream. They certainly could be served as dessert, but in Sweden people eat them as a midmorning or midafternoon snack.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    makes 15 to 20 buns

Ingredients

3 cups all-purpose or bread flour, plus more as needed
1/2 cup almonds
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons instant active dry yeast, like SAF
Pinch of salt
1/2 cup granulated sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) cold butter
4 eggs
About 1 cup milk
Butter or oil as needed
1 cup confectioners’ sugar, more or less
1 cup heavy cream

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Combine the flour and half the almonds in a food processor. Process until the almonds are finely ground, then add the spices, yeast, salt, granulated sugar, and butter. Pulse the machine on and off until the butter is cut throughout the flour. Add 2 eggs and pulse a few more times. With the machine running, slowly add 1/2 cup of the milk through the feed tube.

    Step 2

    Process for about 30 seconds, adding more milk if necessary, a little at a time, until the mixture forms a ball and is quite sticky to the touch, almost too sticky to handle. Put the dough in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap; let rise until nearly doubled in bulk, 2 to 3 hours. Proceed to step 3 or wrap some or all of the dough tightly in plastic wrap and freeze for up to a month. (Defrost in a covered bowl in the refrigerator or at room temperature.)

    Step 3

    Divide the dough into 15 to 20 pieces; use lightly buttered or oiled hands to roll each piece into a round ball, pinching the seam closed as well as you can. Place the balls on a buttered baking sheet or in buttered muffin tins. Cover with plastic wrap or a towel while you preheat the oven to 350°F; set the rack in the middle of the oven.

    Step 4

    Separate the remaining eggs; beat the yolks and use them to brush the tops of the buns. Bake the buns for 15 to 20 minutes, until the crust is golden brown and glossy. Let cool while you prepare the filling.

    Step 5

    Grind the remaining almonds in a food processor or spice or coffee grinder until as fine as possible. With an electric mixer, beat the 2 egg whites until they hold stiff peaks, then combine, by hand, with 3/4 cup of the confectioners’ sugar, the ground almonds, and 2 tablespoons of the cream. When the buns have cooled a bit, cut off the top of each one and put a bit of the almond mixture inside. In a clean bowl, using the mixer, whip the remaining cream with another tablespoon of the confectioner’s sugar and put a spoonful into each of the buns; replace the tops. Sift some confectioners’ sugar over all the buns and serve within a few hours.

The Best Recipes in the World by Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved. MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbuster The Best Recipes in the World (Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestseller How to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, of Simple to Spectacular and Jean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef. Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.
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