Name: Seafood Stew
Cook time: 45 min
Total time: 1 1/2 hr
Yield: Makes 6 servings
Ingredients: 8 cups cold water; 3 lb mixed small whole (1/4- to 3/4-lb) white-fleshed fish (such as black bass, branzino, daurade, red snapper, and rouget), cleaned and filleted with skin, reserving heads and bones for stock; 2 thin carrots, thinly sliced; 1 celery rib, thinly sliced; 1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced, plus 1 large onion, chopped; 1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns; 1 baguette; 2 lb baby squid, cleaned; 2 teaspoons salt; 1 tablespoon olive oil; 2 flat anchovy fillets, minced; 2 garlic cloves, minced; 1/2 teaspoon crumbled dried small hot red chile such as peperoncini or dried hot red pepper flakes; 1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste; 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley; 1 cup dry white wine

Ciuppin

Although many San Franciscans think the zesty fish stew known as cioppino was invented in their city, it can actually be traced back to Genoa — ciuppin is the Genoese term for "nice little bowl of soup." Almost any white-fleshed saltwater fish will do, as long as it's very fresh.

Recipe notes

Fish Stock

This flavorful fish stock is your secret weapon for bouillabaisse, shrimp risotto, clam chowder, and more.

Charred Vegetable Ragù

This sauce is slightly magical. The texture cloaks pasta much like a traditional meat sauce does, and the flavors are deep and rich, but it’s actually vegan!

Green Curry Mussels

The mussels here add their beautiful, briny juices into the curry, which turn this into a stunning and spectacular dish.

Pad Kee Mao (Drunken Spaghetti)

Spaghetti is a common variation in modern Thai cooking. It’s so easy to work with and absorbs the garlicky, spicy notes of pad kee mao well.

XO Sauce

Developed in the 1980s by a chef in Hong Kong, this sauce is all about umami.

Wampanoaug Clam Fritters

The clams’ natural briny sweetness serves as a surprising foil for the tender fritter batter—just be sure to pull off the tough outer coating of the siphon.

Sofrito Bolognese

An ex-boyfriend’s mom—who emigrated from Colombia—made the best meat sauce—she would fry sofrito for the base and simply add cooked ground beef, sazón, and jarred tomato sauce. My version is a bit more bougie—it calls for caramelized tomato paste and white wine—but the result is just as good.

Frijoles de la Olla Ramen (Mexican Stewed Beans)

Traditionally, this Mexican staple is simmered for hours in an olla, or clay pot. You can achieve a similar result by using canned beans and instant ramen.