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Salatet Mokh

Brains are considered a great delicacy in the Middle East. In some parts, it is believed that they feed one’s own brain and render one more intelligent. In other places, it is thought that eating brains reduces one’s intelligence to that of the animal, and people who hold such beliefs cannot be persuaded to touch them. I used to have to eat them in hiding from my children, who screamed when they saw me.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    servse 6-8

Ingredients

2 sets calf’s brains or 4 sets lamb’s brains
Salt
Wine vinegar
1/2 large mild onion or 4–6 scallions, finely chopped
Juice of 1/2–1 lemon, or more
4–6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
White pepper
2–3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley to garnish

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Brains should be cooked when they are very fresh, preferably on the day they are bought. Soak them for 1 hour in cold water with salt and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Carefully remove the thin outer membranes, and wash under cold running water. Simmer gently for 10 minutes in salted water to which you have added a teaspoon of vinegar.

    Step 2

    In the meantime, marinate the chopped onion in lemon juice. Drain the brains thoroughly and slice them. They should be firm enough to keep their shape. Arrange the slices in a single layer in a shallow serving dish.

    Step 3

    Stir the olive oil into the onion and lemon, season to taste with salt and pepper, and sprinkle over the brains. Garnish with parsley.

    Step 4

    Serve as an appetizer or a salad.

Cover of Claudia Roden's The New Book of Middle Easter Food, featuring a blue filigree bowl filled with Meyer lemons and sprigs of mint.
Reprinted with permission from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food, copyright © 2000 by Claudia Roden, published by Knopf. Buy the full book on Amazon or Bookshop.
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