Everyone makes this classic soup a little differently, according to preference. I like my risi e bisi rather brothy, but others make theirs quite dense. This is controlled by the intensity of the boil, whether the pot is kept open or covered, and cooking time, all of which determine the rate of evaporation. (I cook my soup covered, at a slow boil.) Either long-or short-grain rice can be used here. Traditionally, the soup was made with short-grain Carnaroli or Arborio rice, and I still think this gives the most authentic flavor and texture. It cooks faster too, but if you need to cook the soup longer or reheat it, the rice tends to dissolve. Long-grain rice, on the other hand, stays more intact in a long-cooking or reheated soup. But as it does not release starch like short-grain rices, the soup will be thinner.
Recipe information
Yield
makes about 3 quarts, serving 8
Ingredients
Recommended Equipment
Preparation
Step 1
Pour the olive oil into the heavy pot and set over medium heat. Stir in the bacon pieces, and cook for several minutes to render the fat. When the bacon starts to crisp, stir in the leek (and fresh peas, if using). Cook, stirring frequently, until the leek is wilted and the bacon is caramelized, about 6 minutes.
Step 2
Meanwhile, heat 3 quarts water to a simmer. Pour into the pot with the leek and bacon, add the tablespoon salt, and stir well. Rapidly bring to a boil, then adjust the heat to maintain active bubbling, and cook for an hour or longer, to build flavor in the soup base. Cook covered or uncovered, to reduce the soup rapidly or slowly, to a consistency you prefer (see headnote).
Step 3
Stir in the frozen peas, if using. Return the soup to a bubbling simmer, and cook for 20 minutes before adding the rice. (If fresh peas are already cooking in the pot, stir in the rice after the hour or so of cooking, when the volume has reduced.) Use 3/4 cup rice for a looser soup, or a full cup of rice for a denser one. Return the soup to the active simmer, taste, and stir in 1/2 teaspoon or more salt—remember that more rice needs more seasoning.
Step 4
Cook the rice for 10 minutes or so, stirring occasionally, until the grains are cooked through but not mushy. Turn off the heat; stir in the parsley and grated cheese; season the soup with lots of freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately, passing more cheese and olive oil at the table.
