Latin-food authority Maricel Presilla describes sofrito—the sautéed mix of aromatic vegetables that is the bedrock of this vegetarian soup—as the DNA of the Latin kitchen because it carries a basic flavor code. There's onion and garlic, to be sure, but also tomatoes and various herbs, spices, and chiles, depending on the region. For this red-bean soup, we were inspired specifically by Puerto Rico, as evidenced by recao (an herb similar to cilantro) and by chiles that are fruity rather than hot. Just for fun, we included a last-minute sprinkling of Italian gremolata for brightness.
•If ají dulce chiles are not available, substitute 1 additional Cubanelle pepper.
•Soup, without gremolata, can be made 3 days ahead and chilled. Thin with water if desired when reheating.
Ingredients
For gremolata:
Preparation
Quick-soak beans and make soup:
Step 1
Put beans in a large saucepan with enough water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to a boil, then boil 2 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand, covered, 1 hour. Drain well.
Step 2
Cook onion, garlic, chiles, Cubanelles, recao, and sun-dried tomatoes in oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 12 minutes. Add bay leaf and pimentón and cook, stirring, 2 minutes, then add beans and water and simmer, covered, until beans are very tender, 11/2 to 2 hours. Discard bay leaf.
Step 3
Purée soup in batches in a blender (use caution when blending hot liquids). Reheat over medium-low heat. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in lemon juice.
Make gremolata:
Step 4
Stir together zest, garlic, and parsley.
Step 5
Serve soup sprinkled with gremolata and drizzled with oil.
