Name: Provencal Fish Soup with Saffron Rouille
Cook time: 1 1/4 hr
Total time: 1 3/4 hr
Yield: Makes 8 (first course) servings
Ingredients: 4 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only), chopped; 1 large fennel bulb, stalks discarded, reserving fronds for garnish, and bulb chopped; 3 medium carrots, chopped; 2 large celery ribs, chopped; 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped; 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil; 1 tablespoon herbes de Provence; 2 California or 4 Turkish bay leaves; 1/4 teaspoon cayenne; 1/8 teaspoon crumbled saffron threads; 5 pounds whole whiting, perch, or cod (preferably with heads), cleaned and rinsed well; 5 medium tomatoes, chopped (4 cups); 2 cups dry white wine; 4 (3- by 1-inch) strips fresh orange zest; 6 cups water; 3 tablespoons tomato paste; 1 baguette, cut into 3/4-inch-thick slices; Equipment: a food mill fitted with medium disk; Accompaniment: saffron rouille

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Provencal Fish Soup with Saffron RouilleJohn Kernick

Your eyes aren't playing tricks on you: Yes, after simmering the fish with aromatics, wine, and tomatoes, we advise you to force every last bit through a food mill—heads, tails, bones, and all—for an incredibly lush soup, tasting of a beautiful union between land and sea (the food mill will strain any unwanted solids to be discarded). A garlicky rouille, exotic with a touch of crumbled saffron, further coaxes out the natural richness of the fish.

Cooks' note:

Soup, without rouille and croutons, can be made 2 days ahead and chilled, uncovered, until completely cooled, then covered. Reheat before serving.

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