I love a fish in meat’s clothing, and that’s what this is: a mild-flavored fish cooked in a rich veal jus. I got the idea for it at a restaurant called Ribollita, in Chiusi, the nearest large town to my house in Italy. There, they wrap a pork filet in lardo and then smother it with green peppercorn sauce. Eventually the lardo found its way onto fish instead of pork. We use veal stock that we have left over from making the Veal Breast Stracotto (page 235), but if you haven’t made that dish recently, you can substitute any quality veal or beef stock.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 4
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350°F.
Step 2
Combine the rosemary, garlic, and 1/4 cup of the olive oil in the bowl of a miniature food processor or the jar of a blender and purée. Rinse the fish fillets, pat them dry with paper towels, and lay them in a single layer in a nonreactive baking dish. Pour the marinade over the fish and turn to coat with the marinade on all sides.
Step 3
Combine the veal stock and peppercorns in a medium sauté pan over high heat. Bring the stock to a boil and continue to boil until it is glossy and has reduced by two-thirds, about 10 minutes. You want the liquid to be shiny and translucent with the consistency of a thick glaze or thin gravy. If you cook it for so long that it becomes dull and gravy-like, stir in enough water to obtain the desired consistency. Turn off the heat while you cook the fish. Just before serving, if the sauce has cooled, warm it over medium heat. Stir in the lemon juice just before serving.
Step 4
Remove the fish fillets from the marinade and season on both sides with salt. Heat the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat until the oil is almost smoking and slides easily in the pan, 2 to 3 minutes. Place the fillets skin side down in the pan and cook for 1 to 2 minutes so the skin begins to brown and crisp. Place the pan in the oven and cook the fish for about 4 minutes, until the skin is golden brown. To check for doneness, look at the skin around the outer edges of the fish; you want it to be a rich, crunchy, french-fry brown around the sides. Remove the pan from the oven and slide a spatula under each fillet to turn it, taking care not to tear the skin or to burn yourself, as the pan will be searing hot. Return the pan to the oven and cook the fish for another minute. Remove the pan from the oven and remove the fish to a plate or cutting board.
Step 5
Line a plate with paper towels. Without wiping out the pan, place it over high heat and, working in batches, place the lettuce leaves in the pan for 30 seconds to 1 minute to wilt them slightly. Remove the leaves to a paper towel and use another paper towel to gently pat them dry. Drape two lettuce leaves in the center of each of four large plates, overlapping them slightly. Lay the fish on the lettuce and spoon the sauce, including the peppercorns, over the fish, dividing it evenly.
suggested wine pairing
Step 6
Verdicchio di Matelica (The Marches)
