Noodle Kugel

Most Jewish families have a cherished noodle kugel recipe, likely passed down from generation to generation. This classic side dish appears at just about every Jewish holiday meal, from Rosh Hashanah brunches to Hanukkah or Shabbat dinners (on Passover, when some forgo grains, you might find potato kugel on the table instead). Though most versions of the noodle pudding follow a similar framework—egg noodles baked in a sweet, eggy custard—the presence of certain ingredients tends to elicit heated debate. Should a kugel have raisins in it? Some say yes, absolutely—others scoff at the suggestion. Some say it’s not a kugel without sour cream and cottage cheese; others swap in cream cheese, Greek yogurt, or even ricotta.

Our best kugel recipe takes a traditional approach. It starts with wide egg noodles, boiled until just al dente (they’ll cook further in the oven, so you want them to retain some bite). The noodles (coated in melted butter so they don’t stick together) are smothered in a sweet, vanilla-tinged custard, containing equal parts sour cream and cottage cheese (full-fat please). And yes, we add raisins (or, for the rebels, crushed pineapple). Forgo the raisins if you must, or substitute another dried fruit, like golden raisins, cranberries, or chopped apricots. Whatever you do, don’t skip the crispy cinnamon-sugar cornflake topping—it’s the real star here. A long cook time—around one hour in total—helps the kugel set up to a sliceable consistency.