For seven centuries, Moors and Christians fought one another in Spain, but in the guise of black beans and rice they surrendered to each other's charms within the all-embracing New World pot. Like the hybrid culture that flourished in medieval Spain, the rice dish known as moros y cristianos is an exemplar of exchange between civilizations.
It is feast food in Cuba, where you'll find it in the western provinces. Considering that there is a Veracruzan version of this dish and that Cuba always imported black beans from Mexico, we are left in doubt as to which version came first. Regardless of its place of birth, it is one of the most felicitous rice and bean combinations I have ever tasted. The flavors of all the other ingredients are absorbed seamlessly by the rice, the vinegar providing point and counterpoint to the mealy beans, the aroma of cumin and oregano a subtle backdrop for the meaty smoked bacon, which in turn joins forces with the olive oil to add aroma and sheen to the rice. And then the color, a dark brown or hybrid of white and black.
Cook's Note: For this recipe the beans do not need to be soaked. The standard procedure is to use the same amount of cooked beans as raw rice, but that ratio can be adjusted to taste. However, if the beans are slightly overcooked, reduce the amount to avoid turning the rice mushy. Cubans have always used Uncle Ben's converted rice because of its low starch content.
Working Ahead: The beans may be cooked up to 2 days ahead. Drain them, reserving the cooking liquid, and refrigerate the beans and liquid separately. For a quick fix, this recipe may be prepared with 2 cups canned beans (one 15-ounce can). Drain in a colander set over a bowl, and use the bean broth as part of the liquid called for in the recipe.
Recommended Pots: 4- to 5-quart 10- to 12-inch heavy-bottomed pot, at least 3 1/2 inches deep, or 4- to 5-quart 10- to 12-inch cast-aluminum caldero.
