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Kibbeh Makli Mahshieh

These are the most prestigious and popular kibbeh. The preparation requires skill and application. The art lies in making the outer shells as long (at least that is what we thought in Egypt, for I know now that the Lebanese prefer a small, oval, stocky shape) and as thin as possible. The crisp, light, tasty shells should crack to divulge a juicy, aromatic meat filling. Serve hot or cold with tahina cream salad (page 67), baba ghanouj (page 65), and other salads.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 6

Ingredients

For the Kibbeh Shell

1 1/4 cups fine bulgur
1 small onion, quartered
1 pound lean tender lamb
Salt and pepper

For the Meat Filling or Hashwa

1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 tablespoons oil
1/2 pound lean ground beef
Salt and pepper
1/2 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/3 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
Sunflower or light vegetable oil for frying

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    For the shell, soak the bulgur in cold salted water for 10 minutes, then wash in a sieve under cold running water and drain. Squeeze excess water out. Puree the onion to a paste in the food processor. Add the lamb, salt, and pepper and process to a soft paste. Take out the meat and mix with the bulgur. Process the mixture in two batches until it is blended to a soft, smooth, doughlike paste. You may need to add a tablespoon or two of cold water. Leave it to cool, covered, in the refrigerator. This will make it less sticky and easier to work.

    Step 2

    For the filling, fry the onion in the oil till soft. Add the beef and cook, stirring and crushing it with a fork, until it changes color. Season with salt, pepper, allspice, and cinnamon and stir in the pine nuts.

    Step 3

    To shape and stuff the kibbeh, keep wetting your hands with cold water. Take a lump of kibbeh paste the size of a small egg and roll into an oval shape. Holding it in your left hand, make a hole in one end with the index finger of your right hand. Use your cupped left hand to pat the paste around the finger and work it into a long, slim oval shell. Opening and closing your hand, pressing the paste with your finger towards your palm, and slipping the shell round and round, clockwise, enlarge the hole and make the shell as thin as possible (less than 1/4 inch). Patch any holes with a wet finger.

    Step 4

    Fill each shell with about 1 tablespoon of filling. Wet the open rim and pinch it closed. Taper the ends to achieve a slim oval shape. British soldiers in the Middle East during the Second World War used to call these kibbeh “Syrian torpedoes,” and I think that describes their shape rather well.

    Step 5

    Leave the kibbeh covered in the refrigerator until you are ready to cook them.

    Step 6

    Deep-fry the kibbeh in hot vegetable oil for 5–10 minutes, until a rich, dark brown color, and drain on paper towels. Or, if you prefer, bake them: Put them on a greased oven sheet, brush all over with oil, and bake in a preheated 375°F oven for about 30–40 minutes, or until well browned.

    Step 7

    Serve very hot. These kibbeh can be prepared ahead and fried just before serving, or fried and warmed up again in a covered dish in the oven.

  2. Variations

    Step 8

    To the shell mixture add 1/2 teaspoon of allspice and 1 teaspoon of cinnamon, or 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander and 1 teaspoon of cumin.

    Step 9

    Add 2 tablespoons pomegranate syrup (concentrate or molasses) and 1 tablespoon ground sumac to the filling.

    Step 10

    For another Syrian filling, try a mixture of yogurt cheese, chopped walnuts, and pomegranate seeds.

    Step 11

    A Turkish version called içli köfte has 3/4 cup mixed chopped walnuts and pistachios instead of pine nuts in the filling, and a good pinch of ground chili pepper.

    Step 12

    If you find the making of long torpedo shapes difficult, make the easier Lebanese egg-shaped ones.

    Step 13

    Small egg-shaped stuffed kibbeh, poached in boiling water for 5–7 minutes, are thrown into meat stews with eggplants, zucchini, artichokes, quinces, and sour cherries.

    Step 14

    A fried kibbeh with the same filling, sold in Cypriot stores in London, has the following meatless dough for a shell: Wash 1 1/2 cups fine ground bulgur in a fine-meshed sieve and squeeze it dry. Mix with 1 cup all-purpose flour, 1 tablespoon oil, and a little salt. Knead vigorously for 15 minutes, adding enough water to achieve a smooth paste. It has a tendency to break as it is handled, and must be carefully patched. Some people add 2 tablespoons tomato paste (to give the color of meat) and 1 teaspoon cumin.

Cover of Claudia Roden's The New Book of Middle Easter Food, featuring a blue filigree bowl filled with Meyer lemons and sprigs of mint.
Reprinted with permission from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food, copyright © 2000 by Claudia Roden, published by Knopf. Buy the full book on Amazon or Bookshop.
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