Hmong farmers, fleeing Laos to escape persecution, began arriving in the United States in the latter half of the 1970s, with the majority arriving in the 1980s. Most of them eventually settled where they could continue their agrarian life: Minnesota, Wisconsin, Ohio, North Carolina, and California, especially in the fertile land around Fresno, California. This occurrence is especially remarkable to me because it is where my Armenian relatives also settled three generations ago to farm in one of most bountiful growing places in the world. And I benefit still from that abundance. Notwithstanding the lengthy trip to the Bay Area, Hmong-grown vegetables from Fresno appear in glorious array at my local Oakland farmers’ market every Saturday, alongside the Armenian stand from the same area with its effusive display of fruits, heirloom tomatoes, eggplants, and Armenian cucumbers. Among the Hmong staples for sale are sturdy Asian brassicas, such as Chinese cabbage, Chinese mustard greens, and choys of several kinds; luffa (ridged gourd) and Chinese bitter melon; okra and small pickling cucumbers for my holiday pickle jars; and long beans for my Asian-to-new-Californian dishes. Together these two vendors supplement each other and pay tribute to the marriage of Asian and Mediterranean culinary ingredients in California’s hot and prolific Central Valley. It’s enough to incite a food frenzy and cook up something healthful and delicious, such as this hearty yet delicate Hmong-style main-dish soup.
Ingredients
Meatballs
Soup
Preparation
Step 1
To make the meatballs, place all the ingredients in a medium bowl, and knead with your hands until thoroughly blended. Form into 12 walnut-size balls. Set aside on a plate at room temperature for up to 30 minutes, or cover and refrigerate for up to overnight.
Step 2
To make the soup, heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and leeks, decrease the heat to medium-low, and cook gently until both are wilted, about 2 minutes. Add the water and salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the bacon fat is translucent, about 10 minutes. Add the meatballs and continue cooking until they rise to the top, about 5 minutes. Stir in the greens and cook until they are soft but still bright green, 3 to 5 minutes more.
Step 3
Place a portion of rice in each of 4 large, wide bowls. Ladle the soup over the rice and serve right away.
