By mid-November, the tomato vines in our garden have usually had enough. The days are no longer sufficiently warm to ripen the fruits that remain on the plants, so we start thinking about fried green tomatoes. Southerners might raise their eyebrows, but Brian uses neither cornmeal nor bacon fat when he makes these. He prefers the lightness of vegetable oil and the crispness of a panko coating. These coarse Japanese bread crumbs are a favorite of many chefs because they produce such a crunchy and well-browned exterior. Brian tops the fried tomatoes with a dollop of softened goat cheese from Skyhill Farms and a spoonful of fennel marmalade. The dish offers so many pleasing contrasts: warm and cool, tart and sweet, crisp and creamy. We typically serve it as a passed hors d’oeuvre with our Sauvignon Blanc, which has the bright acidity to match.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 8
Ingredients
Fennel Marmalade
Preparation
Step 1
For the fennel marmalade: In a small saucepan, place the olive oil, fennel, onion, thyme sprigs, and lemon zest. Cover and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the fennel and onion are meltingly tender, about 20 minutes. Do not let them brown. Uncover and continue cooking until most of the moisture has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the Pernod and cook uncovered, stirring, for about 2 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. Remove from the heat and discard the thyme sprigs. Pull out the strips of lemon zest, mince fine, and return to the mixture. Season to taste with lemon juice and salt. Let cool to room temperature.
Step 2
Season the tomato slices on both sides with salt.
Step 3
Set up a breading station: Put the flour in a small bowl. Combine the eggs and buttermilk in another bowl and whisk to blend. Put the panko in a third bowl. Using one hand for the wet mixture and another for the dry ingredients (the fl our and the panko), dip the tomato slices first in flour, coating both sides. Drop the floured tomato into the egg mixture and, using your “wet” hand, turn it to coat it with egg. With your “wet” hand, place the coated tomato on the bread crumbs. Use your “dry” hand to press the bread crumbs into place on both sides. Place the coated tomatoes on a tray in a single layer.
Step 4
Put 1/4 inch of vegetable oil in a 12- to 14-inch skillet and set over high heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, dip the edge of a coated tomato slice in the oil. If it sizzles on contact, the oil is hot enough; if not, wait a little longer.
Step 5
Add the tomatoes to the skillet a few at a time; do not crowd them. Fry on both sides, turning with tongs, until golden brown, about 1 minute per side. Lower the heat if needed to keep the bread crumbs from burning. Transfer the fried tomatoes as they are done to a double thickness of paper towels to drain. Season with another pinch of salt.
Step 6
Put the goat cheese in a bowl and mash with the back of a spoon until smooth. Arrange the fried tomatoes on a serving tray. Top each tomato with a small spoonful of goat cheese, then top the goat cheese with 1 teaspoon of fennel marmalade. Sprinkle with chives and serve immediately.
Step 7
Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc or another dry, refreshing white wine.
