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Eish es Seray or Ekmek Kadaif

When I was a girl I could die for this. I hardly ever make it now, but I was very happy to find it again in Istanbul. This is a sweet of Turkish origin which was very popular in Egypt. Some bakeries and cafés always had a large tray full of the rich, translucent, golden-ocher bread soaked in honey and syrup. Numerous recipes exist, and of course the texture and taste depend on the bread and the honey used. Use a fragrant honey like Hymettus or acacia.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 8-10

Ingredients

3 3/4 cups sugar
1 1/4 cups water
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2/3–1 1/4 cups honey
1–2 tablespoons rose water
A large round loaf of white or wholewheat bread
1 1/2 cups eishta (see page 407), clotted cream, or mascarpone
1/4 cup chopped pistachios (optional)

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Make a thick syrup. Bring to the boil the sugar and water with the lemon juice. Simmer 10 minutes, until it thickens. Stir in honey and rose water and simmer for 2 minutes longer. You can darken the syrup to a rich deep brown (the traditional color for this sweet) by melting 2 tablespoons sugar in another pan until it is a dark-brown caramel and stirring it into the hot syrup.

    Step 2

    Cut a slice about 3/4 inch thick horizontally right across the loaf of bread, and cut away the crust around it, so as to obtain one large soft crustless disk of bread. Dry out in a very low oven until slightly colored. Then moisten with water.

    Step 3

    Pour the syrup into a wide, shallow round pan which will hold the whole crustless disk of bread. Bring the syrup to the boil. Place the bread in it and simmer very gently, squashing and pressing it down with a wooden spoon to help it absorb the syrup better. Cook for about 3/4 hour, adding water if it becomes too sticky, until the bread is entirely soaked through and is soft, rich, and heavy.

    Step 4

    Turn out onto a round serving platter and allow to cool.

    Step 5

    Spread with a thick layer of cream or mascarpone and sprinkle, if you like, with chopped pistachios.

    Step 6

    Serve very small portions, as eish es seray is extremely rich and nobody can eat too much of it.

  2. Variations

    Step 7

    Individual slices of bread can be used in the same way as the single large disk of bread and simmered until soaked through and very soft.

    Step 8

    In the Lebanon the syrup is scented with the grated zest of an orange.

Cover of Claudia Roden's The New Book of Middle Easter Food, featuring a blue filigree bowl filled with Meyer lemons and sprigs of mint.
Reprinted with permission from The New Book of Middle Eastern Food, copyright © 2000 by Claudia Roden, published by Knopf. Buy the full book on Amazon or Bookshop.
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