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Curried English Pea Soup with Crème Fraîche

This soup was inspired by Roger Vergé, who, unbeknownst to him, was one of my first cooking teachers. I was lucky enough to dine at his restaurant Moulin de Mougins with my parents when I was in sixth grade. Set in a restored mill in the hills of Provence, the restaurant was paradise. I remember the thoughtful waiter who spent 15 minutes discussing the cheeses on that beautiful wicker trolley. That summer afternoon, when we finished lunch, my father surprised me with Monsieur Vergé’s cookbook. This soup was one of the first recipes I made from the book when we returned home from our trip. My mother loved it, and now, every Mother’s Day, I make this pea soup for her, to remind us of that amazing lunch in Mougins.

Ingredients

6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups diced white onion
A heaping 1/4 teaspoon curry powder
2 cups thinly sliced butter lettuce
3 cups shucked English peas, from 3 pounds in the pod (or frozen peas out of season)
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
6 large whole mint leaves, plus 2 tablespoons sliced mint
5 cups vegetable stock or water
1/2 lemon, for juicing
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons crème fraîche
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat a large saucepan over high heat for about 1 minute. Add 4 tablespoons butter, and when it foams, stir in the onion, curry powder, and 1 teaspoon salt. Turn the heat down to medium and cook 5 to 7 minutes, until the onion is translucent and just starting to color.

    Step 2

    Add the lettuce, peas, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, sugar, and remaining butter. Stir to coat well, and cook another 4 to 5 minutes, until the lettuce is wilted. Stir in the whole mint leaves, add the stock, and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn down to a low simmer, and cook until the peas are just tender. (This may happen very quickly. Taste one to check for doneness.)

    Step 3

    Strain the soup over a bowl. Put half the pea mixture into a blender with 1/2 cup of the stock or water. (You will need to purée the soup in batches.) Process on the lowest speed until the mixture is puréed. With the blender running at medium speed, slowly pour in more of the stock, until the soup is the consistency of heavy cream. Turn the speed up to high, and blend for at least a minute, until completely smooth. Set aside, and repeat with the second batch. Add 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice, and taste for seasoning.

    Step 4

    Pour the soup into six bowls, spoon some crème fraîche in the center of each, and scatter the sliced mint over the top. Or serve family-style in a tureen, garnish with mint, and pass the crème fraîche on the side.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques [by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef by Boston magazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs by Food & Wine in 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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