When my grandmother became ill with cancer, I thought my heart would break. I never knew anything could hurt so badly—the pain actually seemed to make it impossible to breathe. I was living in New York, working in Connecticut, and would fly home to see her as often as possible, at least every other weekend. When I was home I would make her this soft, rich custard that she loved. The cause of death on Meme’s death certificate is actually starvation, not cancer. The cancer prevented her from swallowing, and the only solution was to feed her through a tube, something no one wanted, or needed, to face. It was a cruel irony for a woman who made so many meals with so much joy and love.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 6
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
For the topping, spread the sugar on a large plate or baking sheet and let dry on the counter, uncovered, for at least 3 hours or overnight. When it is properly dried, it will feel dry and sandy. If it’s hard and clumped together, sift it through a mesh sieve. Set aside. (You can use an equal amount of white granulated sugar.)
Step 2
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking dish with a paper towel or tea towel and set six 4-ounce ramekins in the dish.
Step 3
To prepare the custard, in a heavy-bottomed saucepan, add the cream, 1/2 cup of the granulated sugar, and the scraped vanilla-bean seeds and stir over medium heat until blended, the sugar dissolves, and the mixture comes to a simmer. Cover the pan, decrease the heat to very low, and simmer gently for 10 minutes to infuse the cream with vanilla flavor. Strain into a large measuring cup, rinsing and saving the bean for another use.
Step 4
Meanwhile, whisk the yolks with the salt and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a bowl until well blended. Gradually whisk in some of the hot cream mixture just to blend, then whisk the egg mixture into the remaining cream mixture in the measuring cup. Divide the custard equally among the ramekins. Pour enough hot water into the baking dish to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Carefully transfer the baking dish to the oven.
Step 5
Bake the custards until almost set in the center when the ramekins are gently shaken, about 35 minutes. Using a metal spatula or tongs, transfer the ramekins to a rack to cool to room temperature. (Let the water bath cool completely before removing it from the oven.) Once the custards are at room temperature, chill them in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours and up to 2 days.
Step 6
To finish, evenly sprinkle about 2 teaspoons of the prepared brown sugar over each custard. Working with 1 ramekin at a time, hold a kitchen torch so that the flame is about 2 inches above the sugared surface of the custard. Direct the flame so that the sugar melts and browns. Serve immediately.
