I love to make this soup in the summer, when my garden (or the local farmers market) is bursting with cucumbers and tomatoes and the weather is balmy. The first time I had this soup, or a version of it, was in the Maldives, at the Cocoa Island resort on the South Male Atoll, just southwest of India. For the soup, the chef, Stana Johnson, had combined South Indian seasonings and the notion of North India’s favorite cucumber raita, a yogurt relish, to fashion a light summery, cooling soup. I remember sitting in an airy pavilion, the calm blue sea on two sides of me, balmy breezes blowing past, sipping the soup a tablespoon at a time, and thinking, “This is what heaven must be like.” While the flavors were easy on the tongue, the soup was complicated to make. I have spent two years simplifying it, trying to retain its essence while cutting down on all the steps a large-staffed restaurant can do with ease. I like to serve the soup with a dollop of Yogurt Rice, page 26 or 217, right in its center. This is not essential. Just a light sprinkling of diced cucumbers and diced cherry tomatoes will do. But do try it once with the Yogurt Rice as well as the sprinkling of cucumbers and tomatoes. (You do not actually have to make the full Yogurt Rice recipe. A very quick version, made with leftover rice, follows.)
Recipe information
Yield
serves 6¿8
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Put the oil in a small pan and set over medium-high heat. When very hot, put in the dal or split peas. As soon as the dal takes on a hint of color, add the mustard seeds and chilies. As soon as the mustard seeds pop, a matter of seconds, throw in the curry leaves and quickly pour in the chicken stock. Bring to a boil. Turn heat down to medium low and simmer, uncovered, for about 15 minutes or until the stock is reduced to 3 cups. Set aside for 3 hours or overnight in the refrigerator, allowing the stock to chill and get infused with the seasonings. Strain.
Step 2
Peel and roughly dice the cucumber. Put in a blender along with 1/2 cup of the strained broth. Blend finely.
Step 3
Put the salt and yogurt in a large bowl and whisk lightly so you have a smooth mixture. Slowly whisk in the remaining chicken stock and cucumber mixture. Taste for salt and then refrigerate until needed
To Serve
Step 4
Stir the soup well, as it tends to separate, and ladle into soup bowls. Sprinkle the diced cucumbers and diced tomatoes over the top and serve.
