Shell beans are a big part of late summer and early fall in our kitchen. If you happen to come by Lucques on a slow night when they’re in season, you’ll see runners, cooks, and dishwashers gathered around huge piles of shell beans, shucking, shucking, shucking. For me, shucking provides a much-needed period when my hands can do the work and my brain takes a little time off. Don’t worry, shell beans for six won’t require a crew of shuckers.
Ingredients
Shell bean risotto
Preparation
Step 1
Season the fish with the thyme, half the lemon zest, and 2 tablespoons parsley. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours.
Step 2
To make the gremolata butter, mince the remaining lemon zest and combine with the minced garlic and remaining 6 tablespoons chopped parsley on a cutting board. Chop the mixture together until very fine. Scrape the gremolata into a small bowl and mash together with 6 tablespoons butter and 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Season with a heaping 1/4 teaspoon salt and some pepper.
Step 3
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. (Depending on the size of your pan, you may need to cook the fish in batches.) Season the fish with salt and pepper on both sides. Swirl in the olive oil and wait 1 minute. Carefully lay the fish in the pan, skin side down, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the skin is crisp. Turn the fish over, lower the heat to medium-low, and cook a few more minutes, until it’s almost cooked through. When it’s done, the fish will begin to flake and separate a little and the center will still be slightly translucent. Remember, the fish will continue to cook a little more once you take it out of the pan.
Step 4
Spoon the hot risotto onto a large platter. Arrange the fish on top, and smear each fillet with some of the gremolata butter. Squeeze lemon juice over the fish and risotto, and scatter the whole parsley leaves on top.
Shell bean risotto
Step 5
Bring the chicken stock and 3 1/2 cups water to a boil over high heat. Then turn off the heat.
Step 6
Heat a medium pot over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. Swirl in 3 tablespoons butter, and when it foams, add the onion, thyme, chile, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a few grindings of black pepper. Sauté about 5 minutes, stirring often, until the onion is translucent. Stir in the rice, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and a pinch of pepper. Cook 2 minutes, stirring continuously, until the rice just begins to toast and the grains of rice have a white dot at their center.
Step 7
Pour in the white wine, and once it has evaporated, quickly add 1 cup of the hot stock, stirring continuously. When the stock is completely absorbed, begin adding the liquid in 1-cup batches, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon in a rhythmic back-and-forth motion. Wait for each batch of liquid to be absorbed before adding the next. The rice should be bubbling and quickly absorbing the stock. After about 15 minutes, taste the rice for doneness. It should be slightly but not too al dente. The risotto may need more liquid and more time, so keep cooking until it’s done. It should be neither soupy nor dry; each grain of rice should be coated in a flavorful, starchy “sauce.”
Step 8
When the rice is almost done, turn off the heat and stir in the shell beans. Let the risotto “rest” for a minute or two and then quickly stir in the remaining tablespoon butter, the spinach, parsley, and basil. Taste for seasoning. The rice will keep absorbing liquid so add a little more stock if it seems dry.
Note
Step 9
Season the fish with the lemon zest and herbs in the morning. You can cook the shell beans ahead of time, but the risotto must be cooked “to order.” To time this well, start cooking the fish when the risotto is just about done. (The risotto can “rest” for a moment while you pull everything together.)
