This cake always reminds me of my trips to Brittany, an exceptionally beautiful region in western France that borders the Atlantic Ocean. The often-blustery weather is the only thing that stands in the way of Brittany becoming a major tourist destination. Aside from the chilly climate, the region is famous for its hand-harvested sea salt and salted butter caramel, both of which I would travel to the ends of the earth for. And no matter where you go in the region, you’ll find buckwheat being served in various guises, from griddled galettes to kig ha farz, a local curiosity made by poaching a pasty buckwheat batter in the sleeve of a linen shirt until it’s firm. Then it’s rolled on the counter until it breaks into tiny bits, like buckwheat couscous. They say it’s something that you need to be Breton to enjoy, so I must have some Breton in me since I loved it since the first time I tried it. I’m happy to have this cake in my repertoire because I enjoy the hearty taste of buckwheat in my desserts, too.
Recipe information
Yield
makes one 9-inch (23-cm) cake; 8 to 10 servings
Ingredients
Cake
Poached Apples
Preparation
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) cake pan and line the bottom with a circle of parchment paper.
Step 2
To make the cake, in a food processor fitted with the metal blade or in a blender, pulverize the almonds with the buckwheat flour and baking powder until the almonds are powdery and very finely ground.
Step 3
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter and the 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar on medium speed until very light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Beat in the vanilla and the egg yolks, one at a time, until combined.
Step 4
In a clean, dry bowl and with the whip attachment, whisk the egg whites on low speed until frothy. Add the salt and continue to whisk until the whites begin to hold their shape. Increase the speed to high, gradually add the remaining 6 tablespoons (75 g) sugar, and continue whisking on high speed until the whites form soft, shiny peaks.
Step 5
Add the almond-buckwheat mixture to the creamed butter mixture and stir with a rubber spatula to combine. Stir in about one-third of the whipped egg whites (the batter will be thick, but the egg whites will lighten it up). Carefully fold in the remaining egg whites just until incorporated. Don’t overfold.
Step 6
Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool completely.
Step 7
Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Invert the cake onto a plate, peel off the parchment paper, and re-invert the cake onto a serving platter.
Step 8
To poach the apples, peel them and, using a melon baller 1/2 inch (1.5 cm) in diameter, scoop out balls. Or, cut the peeled apples into 1/2-inch (1.5-cm) slices.
Step 9
In a small saucepan, warm the cider, 1/2 cup (100 g) sugar, the cinnamon stick, and cloves. Drop in the apple balls or slices and simmer gently over medium-low heat until the apple pieces are just tender, about 10 minutes. Serve wedges of the cake with the warm poached apples and a spoonful of their syrup.
Storage
Step 10
The cake will keep for up to 5 days, well wrapped, at room temperature. The poached apples are even better made a day in advance, refrigerated, and rewarmed before serving.
Variation
Step 11
Instead of the cider-poached apples, you might try serving the cake with orange segments drizzled with Tangerine Butterscotch Sauce (page 242) or with slices of fresh peaches or nectarines tossed with a bit of sugar.
