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Blanquette de Veau with Leeks

This is a favorite dish of mine that I would make often when I lived in Paris in the late 1940s. I’ve learned to simplify it a bit and make relatively small portions. I am partial to leeks, no doubt because of my Welsh husband, who called them the poor man’s asparagus, and they marry particularly well with delicate veal.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon butter
Salt
About 3/4 pound boneless veal for stew (or so the supermarket package is labeled)
All-purpose flour for dredging
1 fat shallot, sliced
A generous splash of white wine
1 1/4 cups chicken broth
Herb packet of about 8 fresh parsley stems, 3 peppercorns, 1/2 bay leaf
2 plump leeks
2 or 3 new potatoes or fingerlings

For the Optional Finish

1/2 large egg (page 112)
3 tablespoons heavy cream
2 strips Preserved Lemon (page 241), fleshy part discarded, the rind cut into dice, or 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
A sprinkling of chopped fresh Parsley

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Melt the butter in a medium heavy saucepan. Salt the veal pieces lightly, then dredge in flour, shaking off excess. Put them in the pan with the sizzling butter. Sauté gently over moderate heat for a few minutes, turning them until they are just lightly browned on all sides. Add the shallot slices for the last minute of sautéing. Splash in the wine, and cook down a little; then add the broth. Cover, and simmer gently for 1 hour. Cut the coarse green tops off the leeks and save for a soup. Wash the leeks carefully, cut them into 1-inch pieces, and add them to the veal along with the potatoes, peeled and cut in half, and the herb packet. Cook slowly, semi-covered, until the potatoes are tender—about 20 minutes.

    Step 2

    Now, you can enjoy the blanquette as is, but if you want to take the time to make it velvety and soigné, here’s what you do. (First remove four or five chunks of the veal, leaving in the pan just what you want for your own dinner, and store those extra pieces along with a quarter of the cooking juice.) Beat the half-egg in a small bowl until blended, then slowly add the remaining hot cooking liquid and the cream. Return this sauce to the pan with the veal, and heat it very slowly until it thickens. Sprinkle the preserved lemon and parsley on top.

  2. Second Round

    Step 3

    Chop the reserved veal into small pieces, and make a quick veal-sauced pasta dish.

The Pleasures of Cooking for One by Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved. Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author of The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food and the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books: The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; and The Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron on The L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed to Vogue, Saveur, and Gourmet magazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.
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