Baccalà is of ancient Roman favor. The methodology of its preservation was one cultivated during their campaigns in the north, where they learned to embalm a catch of the great, fat cod under unpounded crystals of sea salt, reviving it for meals both festive and humble. Stoccafisso differs from baccalà in its fundamental cure, as it, having no encounter with salt, is simply hung out to dry in the winds moaning up from the North Sea. In either case, once plumped in its renaissance bath of cold water, the cod flesh is tender and, when cooked gently, its flesh takes on an almost creamy texture. The yield of a correctly reconstituted and properly cooked fish, well conserved in either way, is quite the same. This is an unexpectedly delicate dish, the raisins foiling any saltiness that might linger in the fish, while the Cognac softens the acidity of the tomatoes.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 6 to 8
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
To prepare the baccalà, pound it heartily with a wooden mallet, then lay it to rest in very cold water for 48 hours. Change the bathwater several times each day. Drain and rinse. Poach the fish in barely simmering water for 3 minutes. Drain, remove the skin and bones, and cut into 3- to 4-inch pieces. Dry the prepared baccalà on absorbent paper towels and roll the pieces about in a bit of flour, coating them well but not too thick.
Step 2
In a large, shallow terra-cotta or enameled cast-iron pan over a lively flame, warm the olive oil and scent it with 2 of the crushed cloves of garlic, tossing them about until they take on some color. With a slotted spoon, remove the 2 cloves of garlic and discard them. Brown the flour-dusted baccalà, putting only those pieces into the pan that will fit without touching, permitting them to color and crust on one side before gently turning them, crusting the other side. Sprinkle lightly with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper as you proceed. As the baccalà is sautéed, remove it to absorbent paper towels. When all of the baccalà is golden, soften the remaining 2 cloves of garlic in the remaining oil, taking care not to let them take on color.
Step 3
Rinse the pan with the wine, stirring, scraping at the residue, and permitting the wine to reduce for a minute or two. Add the tomatoes, 1 teaspoon of sea salt, and the plumped raisins with their Cognac juices, bringing the mixture to a simmer and reducing the sauce for 15 minutes.
Step 4
Carefully position the fish in the sauce, spooning the juices over them. Cover the pot and, over a gentle flame, bring the liquids just to a simmer, braising the fish gently for 5 minutes.
Step 5
Now the dish can be presented, or it can wait, without harm, covered for several hours. Never reheat the dish, but offer it at room temperature. Just before serving, strew the baccalà with the toasted pine nuts.
