“Most of my mom’s recipes are rooted in the time before she emigrated from Soviet-era Belarus, where making dishes related to Jewish heritage was discouraged,” writes Bonnie Morales, chef and co-owner of Kachka in Portland. “She only learned to make this comforting casserole after she moved to Chicago, where a cousin made it for Passover. Now my mom makes it every year. Her version uses cream of mushroom soup and frozen spinach, but I updated mine with homemade mushroom stock, Swiss chard, and crème fraîche.” Morales makes a flavorful meatless broth with dried mushrooms, but a store-bought version (we recommend Pacific brand) will be just fine.
Recipe information
Yield
8 Servings
Ingredients
stock
Kugel
Preparation
stock
Step 1
Heat broiler. Place onion on a small baking sheet and broil, turning halfway through, until charred, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to a small saucepan and add parsley, all mushrooms, peppercorns, and 5 cups water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cook at a bare simmer until broth is reduced to 3½ cups and is very cloudy, about 1½ hours. Strain stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large heatproof measuring glass or an airtight container (you should have about 3 cups); discard solids. Stir in salt.
Do ahead: Broth can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill.
Kugel
Step 2
Preheat oven to 300°. Butter a 13x9" baking dish. Break matzo into 3" pieces; place in a large bowl. Pour 2 cups stock over and gently toss to coat; set remaining 1 cup stock aside. Let sit until matzo is soaked and breakable but still holds its shape, about 30 minutes.
Step 3
Meanwhile, whisk eggs, crème fraîche, and cream in a medium bowl to combine; season with salt.
Step 4
Remove ribs and stems from Swiss chard leaves. Finely chop ribs and stems, then coarsely chop leaves. Heat 4 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium-high. As soon as butter is foaming, add shiitake and maitake mushrooms and cook, stirring, until liquid is released and mushrooms are reduced by half in size, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to a medium bowl.
Step 5
Reduce heat to medium. Heat remaining 4 Tbsp. butter in same skillet. Add onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add Swiss chard ribs and stems, increase heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring, until onion is golden brown and ribs and stems are softened, about 5 minutes. Add Swiss chard leaves in 2 batches, letting wilt slightly between additions, and cook, stirring, until completely wilted and no longer wet-looking, about 4 minutes. Season with salt. Scrape into bowl with mushrooms and let cool 10 minutes.
Step 6
Add mushroom mixture to bowl with matzo. Season with salt, then stir in egg mixture. If kugel looks dry, add more reserved stock ¼ cup at a time until moist but not watery. Carefully pour into prepared dish; bake until top is golden brown and kugel is set, 55–65 minutes. Let cool slightly before serving.
