Cheater’s Paella

This paella plays fast and loose with tradition—it has all the flavors of the Spanish original but comes together like Chinese fried rice. Starting with cold cooked rice gives you a head start and results in grains that resist clumping and remain distinct. Plus, you won’t have to hover over the stove anxiously wondering if there’s enough liquid or if your rice is done. In place of a special paella pan, a regular old nonstick or cast-iron skillet does the job beautifully without sacrificing the socarrat, the precious crispy rice at the bottom of the pan. If you can’t find Spanish chorizo, pepperoni makes a worthy substitute.