Amazuzuke (Quick Vinegar Pickles)

I have a basic and universal pickling medium—vinegar, water, salt, and sugar—that works with almost any vegetable. It is best to use a hearty vegetable for these pickles, such as cauliflower, green beans, asparagus, okra, radishes, lotus root, red onion, squash, peppers, carrots, and/or cucumbers; leafy greens won’t work well. I serve these pickles like a salad as a side with ramen noodles, gyoza (fried dumplings), or shumai (steamed dumplings), or with a sandwich. I like to add kombu to enhance the umami. Soy sauce also works as a flavor enhancer, especially with cucumbers; simply add a few teaspoons of light-colored soy sauce and a squeeze of lemon to the pickling medium. Spices such as chiles, bay leaf, peppercorns, garlic, and ginger also can brighten pickles, but I use them sparingly. If you want sweeter pickles, add a tablespoon or more of cane sugar to the pickling medium.

This recipe was inspired by my chef friend Minh Phan of Porridges and Puffs in Los Angeles, who makes a heavenly rice porridge and accents it with a pinch of her savory jams and, yes, pickles.