Raised up seven hundred years before Christ on the Mar Ionio, the resplendence of Sybaris eclipsed Athens. Tenanted by unredeemed voluptuaries who roasted songbirds, wove cloth from gold, slept upon rose petals, and indulged every hunger, even their appetite for peace, these Sybarites vanished, as if by some peevish smite from the gods. All that remains is a farming village of sweet, sleepy folk who roast lamb with lemons. Still, I think theirs is a dish upon which an old Sybarite could smile.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 4
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
In a small saucepan over a medium flame, heat the olive oil nearly to a simmer and, off the flame, add the oregano, sea salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Cover the pot and let the oil absorb the seasonings for 1/2 hour.
Step 2
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Step 3
Rub the scented oil over the surfaces of the shanks and place them in an oiled terra-cotta or enameled cast-iron casserole, just large enough to accommodate them. Slice off the top of the garlic heads, leaving the cloves intact and unpeeled, and place them in the casserole. Cut the lemons into thin slices and strew them over the shanks. Roast the shanks for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 375 degrees, continuing to roast for 45 to 50 minutes or more, depending on the size of the shanks, until the flesh yields readily to the thrust of a fork. Remove the shanks, the garlic, and the lemons, arranging them on a long, shallow platter.
Step 4
Place the casserole over a lively flame and add the wine, stirring, scraping at the residue. Add the vinegar and permit the liquids to reduce for 5 minutes before pouring the thick juices over the shanks. Present each shank with a head of garlic and a few slices of the lemon.
Step 5
A great pan of tiny, yellow-fleshed, white-skinned, olive-oil-roasted potatoes, chunks of oven-toasted bread, and cold white wine keep luscious company with the Sybarites’ fine lamb.
