A Couple of Carrot Salads

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Slices of soft, rare lamb or beef left from the Sunday roast, their pink flesh framed with crisp, yellow fat, need a bright, fresh-tasting salad to go with them: coarsely grated carrots stirred through with a sharply citrus dressing made from equal quantities of olive oil and lemon juice, seasoned with toasted cumin seeds, roughly torn parsley leaves, and glistening flakes of sea salt.

   Step 2

   I sometimes make a knife-sharp, shockingly refreshing salad with carrots sliced wafer thin, tossed with a dressing of lime juice, pink grapefruit juice, finely chopped red chiles, torn cilantro leaves, and olive oil. I stir in a teaspoon or so of Thai fish sauce, other times salt. Occasionally I add a grilled pork steak to it, cut into thick fingers. The best bit is when the hot, lightly charred meat encounters the stinging dressing.