Winter

Red Wine-Braised Beef Tenderloin with Red Pepper and Rosemary

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Makes use of the microwave oven.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

A lovely first-course salad. Pears contribute sweetness to the dish; the Italian bacon called pancetta adds a nice salty crunch.

Nice, being by the sea, offers interesting fish dishes. One of these is poutargue, made with dried and smoked roe, which you will find in some delicatessen shops. The roe should be grated or finely chopped. To every 2 cups add 1 cup chopped hard-cooked egg, 1 cup finely chopped onion, a dash of lemon juice and enough olive oil to blend all. Another dish from the sea is raïto or rayte. This is traditional on Christmas Eve throughout Provence. It is reminiscent of other fish stews, including the chioppino of California.

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 5 1/4 hr

Serve the pesto with grilled or sautéed scallops, chicken, or fish. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Begin preparing this a day before serving.

Great-tasting ingredients add up to a thoroughly satisfying meatless entrée that's perfect for a cool autumn evening.

(Caramel Walnut Fudge Bars)

Market Tip: Pick well-trimmed ribs with a thick solid portion of meat on the bone.

Chef Suzanne Goin prepares this dish with Taylor Bay Scallops in the shell, but it's also delicious with regular bay scallops, which are more widely available. Be sure to use a good amontillado, the medium-dry Sherry that is lightly aged to give it a mellow, nutty flavor. What to drink: Condrieu, an aromatic Rhône white made with Viognier grapes.